Hobe's wire work jewelry from the late '30s and early '40s is legendary. This example, circa 1938-1940, shield shaped in the Empress Eugenie style, is bezel set with incredible high domed clear cabochons. Fine dog tooth set rose cut round brilliants in clear and peridot colored art glass stones surround the large center bezel set pink glass chaton. A single tear drop or pear shaped peridot colored art glass stone augments shield point. Hobe's signature fine filigree wire work details throughout. A similar example can be seen on page 214 of the Brunialtis' American Costume Jewelry. Other fine pieces are profiled on line at Morning Glory Collects Hobe. Cody's is proud to present this superb early Hobe dress clip. An indelible and important impression of this company's iconic image.
The clip pictured measures approximately 2 1/4 inches x 1 3/4 inches with a maximum profile of 3/4 inch. (The shield is built up or domed.) Weight is about 30 grams.
Condition is excellent vintage. All components intact. Cabs and stones are outstanding. Table edges of center pink chaton show minor age / handling wear. There are no cracked or broken stones or cabs. Wire work or some wire work may have been golden plated and has worn to a silvery tone. Sides of high bezel settings of cabs have some age appropriate finish wear with a mix of silver and brass tones evident. All soldering and bracing remains intact and secure. Clip back mechanism functions properly. Other than age appropriate finish wear and table wear to the pink stone, the clip is near pristine.
Reverse of the clip is signed within a rectangular cartouche "Hobe'". Little to nothing is known of Hobe's production from 1927 to 1938. They began patenting jewelry designs in 1938. A aficionado's dream, the clip pictured is one of Hobe's early hand made wire works -- an important addition to an advanced collection.
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