Much has been made whether Robert DeMario and Miriam Haskell were associates / associated. The latter may be true since their design styles and construction are so similar. From the intricate patterns, layered wired components, fancy filigree back plates and use of rose montee rhinestones, the two had much in common. Their business connection, however, less definite. DeMario opened his own business in New York in 1945, ceasing operations in the early to mid 1960s.
Autumn leaves, the brooch presented, circa 1950-1960s, features layers of striated coppery brown enamel leaves liberally sprinkled with variously sized, citrine and topaz colored chaton rhinestones. At east and west ends are trefoils set with clear rose montee (flat back) rhinestones. Components are expertly wired / riveted to fancy filigree back or cover plates. Signature DeMario style and substance.
The brooch measures a generous approximate 2 1/2 inches x 2 inches with a 3/4 inch profile or height. Largest center citrine rhinestone is about 11 millimeters; three crowning chatons, 6 millimeters. Weight of the brooch is 28 grams.
Condition is excellent vintage. All components original and intact. All rhinestones intact, retaining colors and sparkle. No cloudy or dead stones. Rose montee rhinestones intact and uniformly clear and brilliant. All foliage enamel intact and lustrous. No chips, nicks, or cracks. No dents, improper bends to metal. All wiring / riveting / soldering secure. Gold tone finish intact, front and back. Extremely clean. No damage / no repairs. Excellent vintage.
Reverse of brooch is signed within an oval cartouche: "DeMario NY". Circa 1950s-1960s.
Bronzed and beautiful. Autumn splendor. Fall for DeMario. At Cody's.
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