This is a fine quality German hand tailored morning suit or what some may refer to as a formal cutaway frock coat with waistcoat and two pairs of striped pants, one heavier weight than the other. Difficult to date precisely, but most likely 1910s to 1920s era. The frock coat is made of a very good quality black woven wool with slightly padded shoulders, a chest pocket, peaked lapels and a single button closure. There are two buttons at the back and each cuff has three buttons. The interior of this morning coat is lined in a twill fabric, maybe silk, I’m not sure. Both pairs of pants are woven wool in alternating grey and black stripes, the darker pair being of a heavier weight and probably meant for winter wear. They both have suspender buttons and button-up flies. The lighter pair has a cinching belt at the back. The waistcoat has a four pocket front and closes with six buttons. All of the buttons are covered in pattern woven silk. Note that there was an old Stuttgart tram ticket in one of the waistcoat pockets (see last photo).
Label and stampings: Friedrich Haug Stuttgart Kasernenstr, 41B. I haven’t been to find anything about this tailor. The heavier darker pair of pants have buttons that read “Steinnuss Hosenknopf”. The lighter pants have buttons that read “E. Breuninger Stuttgart” - E. Breuninger was founded in 1881 and was the second largest department store in Europe, with a target market of well-to-do shoppers. I assume that the lighter pants were an addition to the tailored morning suit.
Sizing: The morning suit should fit a medium size, but note that the pants are always cut to be loose so that you would be comfortable after eating a large meal - no suspenders are included. Please rely on the following measurements for fit, comparing them to another morning coat and pants that you may own or your body measurements, allowing some room for fit:
Shoulders: 17 3/4” across seam-to-seam
Sleeves: 23 1/2” long - there is 1 1/2” of extra fabric inside the cuff
Sleeve Inseam: 16 1/2” long
Chest: 42” around, taken under the arms
Waist: 42” around
Overall length: 37“ to the bottom, measured flat at the back
Chest: 40 1/2”
Length: 20” taken at the back, 23 1/2” taken at the front
Inseam: 29 1/2” - there is an additional 2” inside the cuff of the leg
Overall length: 41”
Inseam: 31” - there is an additional 2” inside the cuff of the leg
Overall length: 43”
Condition: It is in very good condition with no pronounced wear, tear, holes, nibbles or odour. There is, however, brown spotting or toning to the lining of the waistcoat and to the heavier pants (see photos) - these are not visible while the suit is being worn on the body and I do think that they could be treated to some degree, although the larger spot on the interior waistcoat is probably there to stay. The exterior wool, however, and the buttons are free from any wear and this obviously saw little use and was well cared for over the last 100 years. I did see one tiny fray spot on the lighter pants at a pocket as well as a couple to one of the lower, fairly minor.
This is an exceptional morning suit - excellent German tailoring, certainly easy to wear today!