Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a 14kt. yellow gold stickpin Art Nouveau stickpin c. 1890. The center of this sweet piece is a bezel set pearl with rope twisting, 2.25mm. At the compass points there are an additional four cup set pearls, 2.0mm. As a counterpoint, there are four round, bezel set demantoid garnets accented with rope twisting, 1.3mm. The head of the pin is 3/8" round. The pin stem is 2-1/8" long with twisting. This is a small, delicate piece.
Demantoid is a form of garnet which uses chromium to create the green color. Garnets have been known throughout history. The demantoid variety was not discovered until 1868 in Russia's western central Ural Mountains. The mining of demantoid garnet was difficult and the stones relatively small. The stone became the rage in jewelry until the Edwardian period, about 1910. The demantoid is the most expensive of garnet varieties.
The gold content has been tested using standard jeweler's method, such as acid testing and found to be 14kt. The piece is marked "14kt". The pearls are assumed to be natural, since the piece pre-dates the advent of cultured pearls. The stones have been tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The stones and pearls have been measured using standard jeweler's calipers. The stones have not been removed from the piece.
Sweet Nouveau Demantoid Stickpin c. 1890