Devastating Georgian/Victorian Chrysoprase Color Demi-Parure c. 1835

Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a first half of the 19th. century (late Georgian to early Victorian) demi-parure or demi-suite consisting of a necklace and earrings in 10kt., 12kt. and 14kt. yellow gold c. 1835. This articulated set features faceted, sugar loaf cut, deep sea foam green chrysoprase colored stones. The necklace has 12 bezel set octagonal, faceted stones with a decorative serrated edge. The stones are set in 18kt. bezels. The plaques are graduated in the "chain" portion. Each stone is completed by repoussé scroll and ribbon festooning in 12kt. yellow gold. The individual sections are linked together by a gold ring allowing the necklace to lay perfectly on the neck. The necklace is 16" long and has a push in box clasp which is 18kt. yellow gold. The clasp has small chain links attached to the necklace. Additional chain can be added to extend the length if needed. The necklace is 1-1/4" at the widest point (north to south) tapering to 1" near the closure. The stone sizes of the necklace “chain” have a total of 12 octagonal cut pieces: 2- 22mm X 16.5mm, 2- 21.25mm X 15.25mm, 2- 19.5mm X 14.25mm, 4- 18.25mm X 13.5mm, 2- 16.25mm X 12.25mm. The centerpiece consists of a rectangular, bezel set faceted, sugar loaf cut sea foam green stones with a serrated and decorative edge bezel set in 12kt. yellow gold. There are 3 pear shaped, bezel set faceted deep sea foam green drops for added interest mounted in 10kt. and 12kt. yellow gold. These are also set in scrolling repoussé gold work with a serrated edge bezel. The pear shaped dangle drops have added beading along with the scroll and ribbon wrapping. There are remnants of a brooch fixture (see photos) on the main plaque which was probably detachable. The center drop is 2-3/4" long. When adding in the length of the necklace the total with the drops is 3-3/4" long. The stone sizes of the centerpiece are: 1 rectangular cut 21mm X 16mm stone and 3 pear or pendeloque cut 18mm X 8.25mm stones. The "day and night" pendant style earrings, in 10kt. and 12kt. yellow gold, feature the same repoussé scroll and ribbon festooning as the necklace. The top of each earring has a bezel set round, cabochon cut, green stone encircled by gold beading and set in a serrated edging. Dangling from the round stone is a pear shaped or pendeloque cut, faceted stone. The earrings are in 10kt. and 12kt. yellow gold. The earring fixture will detach from the pear shaped bottom and can be worn as a smaller earring. The earrings hook in front and feature a hinged back. They are 2-1/2" long. The top "Day" portion is 11/16". The stone sizes of the earring are: 2 -8.25mm round cut and 2 pear or pendeloque cut stones, 22.5mm X 10mm.

Repoussé is a method of metal work which creates a raised effect by hammering on the reverse side. The stones in this demi-parure or suite are perfectly matched for color. There are some variations in size of the stones as expected in a piece from this period.

The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. It is typical of jewelry from this era that the gold content is varied across the piece, due to inexact methods of refining and measuring the true gold content. The stones were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The stones were found to be a mixture of paste and chrysoprase to create a perfect match. The stone sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight. This demi-parure weighs 75.03 grams.