Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a Russian guilloché enamel pendant/ locket necklace in 14kt. yellow gold circa 1908. This hexagonal (6 sided) piece was made in St. Petersburg, Russia between 1908 and 1917. It is marked for 56 zolotnik gold (14kt.) and features peacock blue guilloché enamel. It is edged with opaque white enamel. This pendant/ locket, with attached chain, has 3 round, bezel set, old European cut diamonds and 3 rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in silver with knife edging. The 3 OE cut diamonds are 0.10 carats each. The diamonds are accented with applied gold trefoil leaves. The round peacock blue, engine turned enamel is surrounded by opaque white enamel. The locket is 1-1/4" across. The interior has recessed area. The locket is attached by the necklace chain at two places on the top and accented with a peacock blue and white enamel rounded rondelle bead. There are an additional four beads accenting the chain. The chain is 19-1/2" long including the center rondelle bead. The back is stamped with 56 zolotnik assay mark with Greek small letter "alpha" ( α ) for St. Petersburg 1908-1917. There are no maker's mark. The chain is also struck with 1908-1917 St. Petersburg assay mark and 56 old Russian gold standard (14K). The piece weighs 18.7 grams.
Guilloché is a type of enamel that is created by engraving a pattern in the gold object before glass enamel is placed over the gold. This allows the pattern (some time called "engine turning") to show through the enamel, creating a look of "foiling". Carl Fabergé combined the technique of guilloché with enamel during the end of the 1800's and was quickly followed by Cartier, Fouquet and others. The enamel style remained in vogue until the end of WWI or the end of the Russian Empire and the Austro-Hungarian empire. The guilloché enamel will show various depths of color.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. There is a "56" Zolotnik mark for 14kt. gold. The diamonds were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. They were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight. Diamonds 0.10 carats and smaller will not be graded.
Fabulous Imperial Russian Enamel Pendant Necklace c. 1908
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