Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a Georgian era demi-parure or demi-suite consisting of a necklace and earrings in 14kt., 16kt. and 18kt. yellow gold c. 1820. This articulated set features faceted, sugar loaf cut, deep sea foam green chrysoprase. The necklace has 12 bezel set octagonal, faceted stones with a decorative serrated edge. The stones are graduated in the "chain" portion. Each stone is completed by repoussé scroll and ribbon festooning. The individual sections are linked together by a gold ring allowing the necklace to lay perfectly on the neck. The necklace is 16" long and has a push in box clasp. The clasp has small chain links attached to the necklace. Additional chain can be added to extend the length. The necklace is 1-1/4" at the widest point (north to south) tapering to 1" near the closure. The stone sizes of the necklace “chain” have a total of 12 octagonal cut pieces: 2- 22mm X 16.5mm, 2-21.25mm X 15.25mm, 2-19.5mm X 14.25mm, 4-18.25mm X 13.5mm, 2-16.25mm X 12.25mm. The centerpiece consists of a rectangular, bezel set faceted, sugar loaf cut sea foam green chrysoprase with a serrated decorative edge. There are 3 pear shaped, bezel set faceted deep sea foam green drops for added interest. These are also set in scrolling with a serrated edge bezel. There is repoussé scrolling and ribbons wrapped around the center drop in circles. The pear shaped drops have added beading along with the scroll and ribbon wrapping. There are remnants of a brooch fixture (see photos). The center drop is 2-3/4" long. When adding the necklace, the center drops a total of 3-3/4" long. The stone sizes of the centerpiece are: 1 rectangular cut 21mm X 16mm stone and 3 pear or pendeloque cut 18mm X 8.25mm chrysoprase. The "day and night" pendant style earrings feature the same repoussé scroll and ribbon festooning as in the necklace. The stones are faceted, deep sea foam green chrysoprase. The top of each earring has a bezel set round, cabochon cut chrysoprase encircled by gold beading and set in a serrated edging. Dangling from the round stone is a pear shaped or pendeloque cut faceted stone. The earring fixture will detach from the pear shaped bottom and can be worn as a smaller earring. The earrings hook in front and feature a hinged back. They are 2-1/2" long. The top "Day" portion is 11/16". The stone sizes of the earring are: 2 -8.25mm round cut and 2 pear or pendeloque cut stones, 22.5mm X 10mm.
Repoussé is a method of metal work which creates a raised effect by hammering on the reverse side. The chrysoprase in this demi-parure or suite is perfectly matched for color. There are some variations in size of the stones as expected in a piece from this period. Chrysoprase stone is called the stone of Venus and is in the chalcedony family. Because of its deep, rich apple jade green color, it was often mistaken for emeralds by ancient jewelers. It has been used in the jewelry of antiquity because of its spectacular color. Chrysoprase is thought to symbolize happiness and brings good fortune and prosperity to the wearer.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing.
The chrysoprase were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The chrysoprase sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight. This piece is made with various gold contents throughout, as is typical of Georgian jewelry when gold refining was not precise. This demi-parure weighs 75.03 grams.
Devastating Georgian Chrysoprase Demi-Parure c. 1820