Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a 14kt. yellow gold festoon style Art Nouveau necklace circa 1890. The necklace features three oval, faceted and bezel set dark pumpkin colored, bright Madeira citrine gemstones. The stones are set in a serrated edge bezel. The citrines are mounted in a floriform design plaque or frame and each plaque has two round and prong set natural pearls flanking the stones. From each plaque, there is a baroque (or irregularly shaped) pearl drop. The frames are connected by chains to create a drape or festoon effect when worn. The central piece is 1" X 1" (maximum dimension) and is 1-3/8" long including the pearl drop. The side plaques are 15/16" X 15/16" (maximum dimension) and are 1" long including the pearl drop. The necklace is 17-1/2" long and has a secure tube clasp closure.
Festoon necklaces are pieces featuring garlands and drapery and usually have drops of pearls, gemstones or gold work. This type of necklace has been popular throughout history, but made a renaissance during the Art Nouveau and Belle Epoque era of the late 19th. and early 20th. century.
The most valuable type of citrine are natural gems in the heavily saturated colors, known in the trade as Madeira Citrine. The name comes from a fortified Portuguese wine from the Madeira Islands. The color of Madeira citrine ranges from golden to golden-orange, pumpkin to reddish-brown to brown.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. The citrines were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The oval gemstone sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The largest stone is 10.5mm X 14.5mm, or 6 carats (prox). The two side stones are 8mm X 10mm, or 2 carats each. The total weight of the piece is calculated to be 10 carats. The side pearls are 2.25mm X 2.5mm and slightly oval with white body color, The pearl drops are 1- 4.75mm X 4.86mm, 1- 7.88mm X 7.0mm, and 1- 5.9mm X 4.3mm. (maximum dimension). The drops are baroque or irregular in shape. All pearls are assumed to be natural since the piece pre-dates cultured pearls. The gemstone carat weights were calculated based on standard measurement practices. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight.
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Caroline's Jewelry with a Past has been on the web since 1995