Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a 12kt., 14kt., 16kt., and rolled yellow gold brooch and earring set in an Archaeological or Etruscan Revival style c. 1870. These hand crafted pieces feature banded green and peacock or bulls-eye malachite centers. The brooch has an oval 40mm X 30mm cabochon cut, bezel set center stone. The 16kt. yellow gold frame has cross-hatching with rope twisting around a tall rolled gold bezel. The back has a 14kt. yellow gold pin stem, C-clasp and a loop attachment. The earrings are matched in color with the brooch. They feature round, bezel set malachite stones which are 20 mm. and 22mm. held by a rolled gold bezel. The earrings have a ball top with attached 12kt. yellow gold shepherd's crook backs for pierced ears. The brooch is 2" wide X 1-1/2" tall. The 16kt. yellow gold earrings are 1" round and the drop is 1-1/2". The brooch weighs 26.3 grams, the earrings weigh 6.7 grams and 10.1 grams.
Malachite has a number of metaphysical meanings. It is the stone of balance, abundance, manifestation and intention. Malachite has been said to absorb and amplify energy of all kinds and bring emotions to the surface. It has been used in jewelry, as a basis for paints, and numerous other uses for thousands of years. The color makes it an attractive element in jewelry.
Etruscan jewelry, unearthed in tombs just outside of Rome in the early 1800's consisted of intricately wrought jewelry with tiny gold beads and twisted wires applied to the surface. This technique of granulation had seemingly been lost with the ancient Etruscans, but was resurrected with the famous and innovative jeweler, Castellani during the 1850's and copied by other famous jewelers throughout the world. The appeal of granulation lasted until the Art Nouveau movement began to hold sway.
Designs, textures and patterns with wire rope twisting, beading, and cross hatching can be made using granulation techniques. Granulation was a method that applied gold to a surface metal using heat, but without the appearance of having been soldered. This design work had been used since ancient times and became popular again during the mid 19th. century when the great archaeological explorations were being conducted in Italy, Egypt, Sumeria, Turkey and elsewhere that jewelry was found.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. The malachite is natural stone and was tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. They were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight. The malachite shows "flashing" from the camera. The bezels are "rolled gold plate" (RGP). This term along with "gold overlay" may legally be used if the layer of gold constitutes less than 5% of the item's weight. Please note that since these pieces are hand made, each varies slightly in the design and the stones in the earrings are 20mm. and 22mm. Mixed gold jewelry is typical of the Victorian era when an artisan would use gold which had some degree of refining differences. These pieces have the typical variations in gold content throughout the piece and is reason we have listed several gold contents.