Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a pair of Etruscan Revival, also called Archaeological Revival style earrings in 18kt. and 14kt. yellow gold c. 1870. These beauties showcase two round, bezel set, cabochon cut, deep maroon garnets (called carbuncles). The stones are 9.5mm. The total carat weigh is 6.0 carats (prox). The terraced garnets are accented by wire rope twist and mounted above the rope work. The attached top rings have a shepherd's crook earring backs for pierced ears. The earrings are 5/8" round. The total drop from the hook is 1-1/16". The earrings weigh 3.5 grams.
Etruscan jewelry, unearthed in tombs just outside of Rome in the early 1800's consisted of intricately wrought jewelry with tiny gold beads and twisted wires applied to the surface. This technique of granulation had seemingly been lost with the ancient Etruscans, but was resurrected with the famous and innovative jeweler, Castellani during the 1850's and copied by other famous jewelers throughout the world. The appeal of granulation lasted until the Art Nouveau movement began to hold sway.
Designs, textures and patterns with wire rope twisting, beading can be made using granulation techniques. Granulation was a technique that applied gold to a surface metal using heat, but without the appearance of having been soldered. This design work had been used since ancient times and became popular again during the mid 19th. century when the great archaeological explorations were being conducted in Italy, Egypt, Sumeria, Turkey and elsewhere that jewelry was found using this technique.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. The earrings are 18kt., while the earring backs are 14kt. There has been some repairs to the top of the earring backs (see photos). The garnets were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The garnet sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The weight calculation was done using standard stone calculation. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight.