Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a pair of Etruscan Revival, also called Archaeological Revival style earrings in 14kt. yellow gold c. 1870. These beauties showcase two bezel set, oval, cabochon cut, deep maroon garnets (called carbuncles). The stones are 11.5mm X 7.5mm. The total carat weigh is 8.5 carats (prox). The garnets are accented by wire rope twist and mounted above the granulation bead work. The terraced (multi layered) earrings are completed by a wire rope twist frame and topped by a wire rope twist lover's knot. The backs are closed. The attached tops are in a shell style and completed with shepherd's crook backs for pierced ears. The earrings are 7/8" wide (east to west) X 11/16" (north to south). The total drop from the hook is 1-/2". The earrings weigh 5.6 grams.
Etruscan jewelry, unearthed in tombs just outside of Rome in the early 1800's consisted of intricately wrought jewelry with tiny gold beads and twisted wires applied to the surface. This technique of granulation had seemingly been lost with the ancient Etruscans, but was resurrected with the famous and innovative jeweler, Castellani during the 1850's and copied by other famous jewelers throughout the world. The appeal of granulation lasted until the Art Nouveau movement began to hold sway.
Granulation was a technique that applied very small beads of gold to a surface metal using heat, but without the appearance of having been soldered. Designs, textures and patterns with wire rope twisting, beading can be made using granulation techniques. This design work had been used since ancient times and became popular again during the mid 19th. century when the great archaeological explorations were being conducted in Italy, Egypt, Sumeria, Turkey and elsewhere that jewelry was found using this technique.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. The garnets were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The garnet sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The weight calculation was done using standard stone calculation. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight.
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