Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a mixed carat gold cannetille and amethyst bracelet c. 1820. This piece has 14kt. to 22kt. gold content. The bracelet has 7 oval plaques each with a natural, oval, faceted medium purple amethyst mounted in a scalloped bezel. The stones are framed by cannetille work including half orbs with applied seed balls, coils, tendrils and fringe work. The plaques are 1" tall X 15/16" wide. Each plaque is attached with two ornamental oval plates. The nicely matched amethyst are 13.7mm X 11mm, for a total weight of 33.25 carats (prox). The bracelet is finished with a secure tongue style clasp and weighs 23.4 grams. The bracelet can accommodate a 7-8" wrist. There is a safety chain (a later addition, probably).
Cannetille is similar to filigree work. It consists of fine gold wires twisted into intricate shapes, such as scrolls, coils, rosettes, or tendrils and was often used with granulation techniques. It is also known as "wirework". It is almost always used with colorful gemstones in combination or separately, including amethyst, pink topaz, garnet and aquamarine. It was popular in jewelry styles in the 1820's and 1830's.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. Prior to the great gold discoveries in the 1850's-1900's gold was in short supply and refining techniques was not precise, so pieces with various gold contents are common. This piece has 14kt. to 22kt. gold content, with different areas of manufacture having differing gold contents. The amethysts were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The amethyst sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The gemstone carat weights were calculated based on standard measurement practices. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight.
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Caroline's Jewelry with a Past has been on the web since 1995