Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a 18kt. and 16kt. bloomed yellow gold Georgian era flexible bracelet circa 1820. The centerpiece of this bracelet features an oval, faceted, bezel set medium blue aquamarine gemstone. The stone is 15.2mm X 12.9mm, weighing approximately 10.5 carats. The aqua is set in a serrated bezel surrounded by cannetille work, leaves, balls and rosettes. At the compass points, sit four oval, faceted, bezel set light green chrysoberyl gemstones. They measure 5.75mm X 4.75mm and weigh approximately 0.50 carats each. The central plaque of the bracelet is 1-1/4" X 1-1/2". The flexible bracelet is comprised of 8 oval, curb type chain links. The box clasp is hidden behind the central plaque. The bracelet is 7" long. There is wear commensurate with age.
Cannetille work is made of fine gold wires or thinly hammered gold sheets shaped in to flowers, balls, leaves, shells, etc. Most pieces of jewelry with cannetille was popular in the 1820's and 1830's. Most cannetille jewelry features colored gemstones, including aquamarine, pink topaz, amethyst, garnets, rubies, turquoise and chrysoberyl. Most commonly, the stones were in closed back and foiled settings to give the stones a more uniform look.
Blooming, or bloomed gold was a finishing technique for jewelry from about 1800 until the turn of the 20th. century. A gold item was dipped into a chemical mixture to remove any alloys that were present on the surface of the gold. The surface presented after the dipping has a pure gold appearance and a matte finish.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. The gemstone sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The aquamarine and chrysoberyl were tested using a jeweler's stone tester. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight.
Aquamarine is in the beryl family of gemstones. It is not in the same family with chrysoberyl, although both contain beryllium. Ordinary chrysoberyl is yellowish-green and transparent to translucent. When the mineral exhibits good pale green to yellow color and is transparent, then it is used as a gemstone.
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Caroline's Jewelry with a Past has been on the web since 1995