Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering an 18kt. bloomed yellow gold flexible link bracelet c. 1860 by Charles Packer, 78 Regent Street, London. A stunning piece, this bracelet has three oval, bezel set faceted deep purple amethysts. The center stone is 21.0mm X 17.0mm (17 carats prox). The side stones are 16.5mm X 13.0mm (10 carats prox) and 16.0 X 13.0 mm (9.5 carats prox). All of the stones are beautifully matched for color, cut and clarity. The total weight of the amethysts is 37 carats (prox). The stones are mounted in a chandelier or stacked style mounting. The entire flexible bracelet and stone mountings are covered in Etruscan Revival style granulation work. The framework of the bracelet is sturdy and the mountings for the stones are hinged (see reverse pictures). The center stone mounting is 1-1/8" tall X 1" wide and tapers on either side to 1-1/16" tall X 15/16" wide. The bracelet is 15/16" wide. The tongue and box clasp are 10kt. and 14kt. respectively to give strength to the structure. The box clasp is bright cut gold engraving. The bracelet is 7" long. The clasp is very secure. The piece weighs 74.2 grams. The bracelet comes in its original box.
Please note, there is a matching ring, Item RG00265.
This piece was made by Charles Packer (1826-c. 1932), also known as C. Packer and later as Charles Packer & Co, at 78 Regent Street, London W., England. Charles Packer was first in a partnership with William Brady, but their partnership was dissolved in 1839 and he carried on as a jeweler, pearl bead and coral dealer at the same address at 78 Regent Street, London W. until 1880. From 1880 until 1917 the business traded as Charles Packer & Co and then as Charles Packer & Co Ltd until c. 1932. (John Culme, 'The Directory of Gold and Silversmiths 1838-1914', Woodbridge 1987). Information courtesy of the British Museum.
Granulation is a technique that applies very small beads of gold to a surface metal using heat, but without appearance of having been soldered. Designs, textures and patterns can be made using granulation techniques. This design work has been used since ancient times and was resurrected during the mid 19th. century when the great explorations were being conducted in Italy, Egypt, Sumeria, Turkey and elsewhere and jewelry was found using this technique.
Blooming, or bloomed gold was a finishing technique for jewelry from about 1860 until the turn of the 20th. century. A gold item was dipped into a chemical mixture to remove any alloys that were present on the surface of the gold. The surface presented after the dipping has a pure gold appearance and a matte finish.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. The amethysts were tested using a standard jeweler's gemstone tester. The amethysts sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The weight calculation was done using standard stone calculation. They were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight.