Caroline's Jewelry with a Past is offering a 18kt. and 10kt. bloomed yellow gold Georgian brooch circa 1820. The brooch features 6 foiled and closed back light to medium blue, pear and oval shaped, faceted and bezel set aquamarine gemstones. The stones are set in a navette shaped mounting. The frame features cannetille work, florettes, balls, leaves, shells, wire work and repousee work. The piece is 2-1/4" X 1" (maximum dimensions). The brooch has a C-clasp.
Cannetille work is made of fine gold wires or thinly hammered gold sheets shaped in to flowers, balls, leaves, shells, etc. Most pieces of jewelry with cannetille was popular in the 1820's and 1830's. Popular cannetille jewelry featured colored gemstones, including aquamarine, pink topaz, amethyst, garnets, rubies, turquoise and chrysoberyl. Most commonly, the stones were in closed back and foiled settings to give the stones a more uniform look.
Blooming, or bloomed gold was a finishing technique for jewelry from about 1800 until the turn of the 20th. century. A gold item was dipped into a chemical mixture to remove any alloys that were present on the surface of the gold. The surface presented after the dipping has a pure gold appearance and a matte finish.
The gold content of this piece has been tested using standard accepted testing methods, such as acid testing. Typical of many Georgian and Victorian items, pieces were made with various gold content due to lack of standardization of materials, poor refining processes and availability of gold.
Aquamarine is in the beryl family, along with emeralds. The pear shaped stones in this brooch measure 4- 12.0mm X 5.5mm. The oval stones measure 2- 6.25mm X 4.25mm. The total weight is 6.3 carats. The stones are in a closed and foiled back mounting, so are difficult to assess the actual carat weight. The aquamarine sizes were calculated using a standard jeweler's caliper. The stones were tested using a jeweler's stone tester. The stones were not removed from the piece to do physical testing or for weight.
There are some antique repairs to the reverse of this piece. There is a chip to one corner of a pear shaped stone (see photos).
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Caroline's Jewelry with a Past has been on the web since 1995