This sparkling and very beautiful rhinestone grand parure of necklace, bracelet, brooch and earrings is a DeLizza and Elster Juliana classic that has been featured in numerous collectors' books (Carroll, 2007; Leshner, 2003; Musetti, 2008; Pitman, 2010) in colors of blue, emerald green, and amethyst, but for dazzling richness, none can compare with the dramatic colors of these amber and jonquil rhinestones!
From 1947 through 1990, the DeLizza & Elster Company manufactured hallmarked jewelry for other well-known companies including Weiss, Alice Caviness, Kramer, Hattie Carnegie, Joan Rivers, and Kenneth J Lane, among others. Jewelry pieces sold under the D & E name were not signed, but instead can be recognized by a number of design and construction characteristics, including the use of large foiled and un-foiled rhinestones and art glass stones, figure eight solder puddling, and five-link and riveted construction (DeLizza, 2006).
The near-mint condition bracelet exhibits the signature use of unusual and colorful rhinestones for which the company is so well-known. Measuring 6 3/4" with clasp closed, the beautiful amber colored stones in this bracelet are mounted on five links and are highlighted with a sparkling cluster of four jonquil rhinestones mounted on a wire over setting which adds depth and dimension to the piece. Ornamenting each link connector is a triad of one large, flanked by two small, jonquil rhinestone chatons. All stones are prong-set into a beautiful, gold-tone, rhodium-plate setting that has almost no finish loss on the back of the links with the characteristic figure-eight puddling of the solder present on the reverse. The bracelet closes with a fold-over clasp and is further secured with a working safety chain.
The matching necklace features a centerpiece that repeats the rich rhinestone design of the five-link bracelet. Utilizing a hook-style closure which adjusts from 14" to 17 ½" in length, this lovely necklace has slight finish wear in spots, but otherwise is in excellent condition.
Repeating the entire design of one link in the necklace and bracelet, the near-mint condition matching clip-on earrings measure 1" long by 7/8" wide. The clips are secure and have been cleverly positioned at an offset on the back so that the earring link sits up comfortably on the ear.
It's very rare to find the matching brooch to this lovely set, but here it is! Measuring 2 ¼" in diameter, the graceful rhinestone floral spray is constructed of three tiers in a characteristic D & E riveted setting. The top tier features four rhinestone cluster wire-overs in the best condition I have ever seen! They retain their original shape and appear not to have been crushed down over time as so many wire-overs have. There is dulling to the sparkle in some of the jonquil stones on the bottom tier and on one rhinestone in the lower right-hand wire-over. Otherwise this beautiful brooch is in excellent condition.
This fabulous grand parure is a wonderful representation of glamorous D & E style!
Each piece of your beautiful vintage costume jewelry will be sent to you wrapped in archival quality, acid-free tissue paper and placed in a gift box tied with ribbon.
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Carroll, J. C. (2007) Collecting costume jewelry 202: The basics of dating jewelry 1935 – 1980: Identification and value guide. p. 301. Collector Books, 5801 Kentucky Dam Rd., P.O. Box 3009, Paducah, KY 42003.
DeLizza, F. (2006). Memoirs of a Fashion Jewelry Manufacturer. DeLizza and Elster, Inc. Publishers.
Leshner, L. (2003). Rhinestone jewelry: A price and identification guide. p. 14. Iola, WI: Krause Publications.
Musetti, K. (2008). The Art of Juliana Jewelry. p. 186. Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 4880 Lower Valley Road, Atglen, PA 19310.
Pitman, A. (2010). Juliana Jewelry Reference: DeLizza & Elster Identification & Value Guide. pp. 257 - 258. Collector Books, P. O. Box 3009, Paducah, Kentucky 42002-3009.
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"Book Piece" D&E Juliana Amber & Jonquil Rhinestone Grand Parure Necklace, Bracelet, Brooch, Earrings