This example is a new cast iron reproduction of the comic character Popeye Hubley motorcycle toy. In good original paint an authentic toy could be expected to sell for a price in excess of three thousand dollars. This new piece can, of course, always be had for much less, especially if you purchase it from the wholesale source currently selling them. The new paint of the Popeye rider has been artificially 'distressed' so that it doesn't so much resemble the brand new application that it really is and instead seems to show wear, as one would expect to see on a truly old painted, cast iron toy that had seen much play time in the hands of a child. Meanwhile the motorcycle has almost no paint at all and instead has an over all 'rust job' to suggest age. Illogically, however, the one point on the item that would most surely show wear, the bottoms of the tires, show good black paint coverage and zero signs of wear.
Although other factors such as the extremely poor quality of casting, with excess flash visible inside openings, a rough surface, poor detail and sloppy assembly help to give the item away as a newer piece, the original Hubley toy also actually had real rubber tires, not cast iron tires.
This new toy is approximately 9 inches long and about 4 1/2 inches tall at the handle bars, Popeye measures 6 inches tall, alone; when he's on the bike the whole piece stands about 7 1/2 inches tall.
When considering the purchase of a cast iron item keep the tips below in mind (print them off so that you will have them as a handy reference). See how many of them might be applicable to this item.
1. New reproductions of vintage cast iron toys/banks will be heavier and less detailed than an original counterpart.
2. The individual pieces often don't fit well together. Look for misalignment and gaps at seams where the pieces meet.
3. Very fine sand was used in the creation of old cast iron pieces, so expect them to be extremely smooth, with fine detail. Surfaces of old cast iron will feel almost silky to the touch.
4. The makers of newer cast iron pieces use a rougher, less expensive sand for casting that results in a surface that is rough and/or grainy, sometimes pebbled. Detail is usually poor, as well, often bordering on crudeness. If it doesn't look as if a skilled craftsman made it, it's almost certainly a contemporary piece.
5. Look for flash (excess metal) at seams or on design elements - inside the spokes of a wheel, for instance, or inside edges on the coin slot of a bank. Even inside the crevices of intricate details like scroll-work can be expected to be well finished in antique pieces. Very little to no flash will be present on an authentically old piece.
6. Visible rough grinding marks are the hallmark of the modern power tool. Finishing marks should be virtually invisible on an old piece.
7. Expect an old piece to have a better level of detail to the paintwork. On figural pieces, look carefully at faces as they should not look crudely (quickly) painted. Newer pieces are usually mechanically spray painted with a thin layer of paint, although not always.
8. Patina can be faked, so look for evidence it has been wiped on with a brush or rag at the factory. Other ways to quickly give the appearance of age to new cast iron is to bake newly applied paint in an oven or bury an item briefly to achieve some authentic appearing rusted areas.
9. Sandpapering or abusing an item in some other way after new paint has been applied is done in an effort to mimic the appearance of play wear or use. New items may have 'wear,' but it often won't be in areas of the piece where it would logically be found. Wear in inappropriate areas and pristine surfaces where wear should logically be expected, invariably equals fakery.
10. Authentically old pieces won't be held together with modern Phillip's head screws. However, seeing a slotted screw under 'original' paint doesn't automatically mean a piece must be all right. Since collectors got wise to this fact, many newer cast iron fakes and reproductions are now produced with slotted screws that closely resemble those that would be found in authentic pieces.
11. Reproductions and fantasy items currently in production today are rarely marked. They might originally sport a paper label but, generally, soon after delivery to the first wholesale buyer a paper label tends to `fall' off.
Quite a few 19th and early 20th century foundries incorporated a mark, name or patent number into their molds. However, since some reproductions are produced from molds made from an original piece, as with many other types of collectibles, a maker's name isn't always proof the item is authentic.
Illustrations and Characteristics for Help in Identifying Many Confusing New Items
Item listings in this shop are intended to be viewed for educational purposes, only. Items in this shop are not for sale.