For a chic flapper style, here's an easy choice: a glossy and glittery black enamel and rhinestone inset brooch with a bit of Art Deco and Art Nouveau aesthetics.
This brooch is an unsigned creation by Pierre Bex, a French design company that created Deco and Nouveau-inspired pieces between the 1960s thru 1980s, using original stampings from the early 20th century eras.
Bex pieces are collectible because of their faithful interpretation of the original designs, especially that "antique look" which has misled many people (myself included) into thinking the pieces are from the turn of the century.
Bex hand-made all their pieces in France, from the original stampings and using the original or similar tools of the periods. The process includes silverplating with an antique finish, enamelling, and setting with crystals. A number of their pieces are unsigned, but are distinctive because of the use of the trombone clasp, in wide use during the 1920s-1930s, and popular among French jewelry makers.
Our brooch is an elegant symmetrical ovoid shape, with a solid glossy black enamel center surrounded by graceful open metalwork; both areas are accented with rhinestones.
The black oval center has a granulated ribbon bow design in the center, accented with rhinestones. The oval also has scroll-like accents on ther longer sides, also trimmed with rhinestones. The center has a "wet" look because of a clear enamel wash over the entire surface; as the enamel has somewhat yellowed with time, this adds to the brooch's antique aurea.
Surrounding the black enamel center are vine-like curlicues, also granulated and rhinestone accented.
The brooch measures about 2 1/4" x 1 1/2", and has a trombone clasp. Unsigned, but its pedigree is well established because of the construction process and type of clasp used.
It is in very good to excellent condition. The enameling is glossy, the rhinestones are all glittery. The metal just has the right patina of age to be delightfully mistaken for a brooch from the actual Deco or Nouveau period.
Nouveau/Deco Style Black Enamel and Rhinestone Brooch: Pierre Bex
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