A splendid, oversized Retro era cocktail ring, created in a “ribbon bow” design. Undulating 18k gold, designed in the sensuous and sculptural style emblematic of the late Art Deco period, is set with three step-cut rectangular sapphires flanked by sixteen brilliant cut diamonds set in platinum. Certainly French in origin, it was not hallmarked at the time of its creation, and may have been made on the sly. During the war years it was illegal to buy and sell precious metals, thus pieces were made from older pieces that were scrapped and melted down. All melted metals were taxed by the government. Any gemstones used would have been those already available, saved from the pre-war years or removed from older pieces. Even during the years of deprivation people made the most of what they had, creating bold designs by cutting sheets of gold and soldering them together in a form that gave the impression of volume. The effect was to make a statement, often with designs that mimicked tank tracks in precious materials.
Magnificent and bold, it weighs a very heavy 19 grams (most rings weigh between 2 and 5 grams). Its size evokes visions of old Hollywood glamour of the war years. Very good condition, the band has some nicks and abrasions consistent with normal wear. The sapphires show some abrasions.
Hallmarks: French assay marks for 18k gold and platinum
Each sapphire is 0.80 carats, approximately
Gross weight: 18.9 grams
Size 9 US, and can be sized
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