Enamel, diamond and 18k gold brooch by the esteemed French artist Lucien Gautrait. Gautrait is known as an Art Nouveau jeweler though his early work is more in keeping with the style of the Belle Époque (1880s to 1890s) exemplified by Tiffany and other grand jewelers of the era. Very little is known about Gautrait, except that he was considered an expert enameller when he worked for the firm of Léon Gariod from the late 1800s to early 1900s. His pieces range in style from sweet enameled and jeweled plaques with Louis XVI motifs to fantastical Art Nouveau imagery of peacocks and women. Apparently he worked for only a short period of time, relatively speaking, and his pieces are rare.
In this example, gold ribbons and laurel leaves are highlighted by four round rose cut diamonds (approximately 0.05 carats each) and a central marquise cut diamond (approx. 0.25 carats) against Gautrait's signature white and blue guilloché enamel cartouche. The diamonds are set à jour in white gold millegrain settings. The pin stem bears the hallmark for Léon Gariod. The brooch is signed "L. Gautrait" on the back of the top ribbon, and numbered at the bottom right of the setting. Mint condition, French from approximately 1890 to 1900.
Measures 35mm wide x 31mm high (not including the pin)
Weight: 13.6 grams
Marks: Maker's mark for Leon Gariod, French eagle's head mark for 1838 to 1919