A very scarce novelty folding bracelet / pendant in 18k gold and platinum. Comprised of eight plaques incised with a leaf pattern and gothic lettering spelling “souvenir”, or remembrance, and two ‘covers’ decorated with an applied acanthus pattern in platinum; the spine has two rows of six natural pearls each (12 total) and a row of seven rose cut diamonds. The bracelet folds into a book shape, a hidden movable ring allows it to be worn as a pendant. While several examples exist, set with turquoise stones, diamonds or enamel work, this is the only one we have seen with platinum in such a fine pattern. Although the bracelet dates to the early Victorian period, it maintains a look and feel that is remarkably modern. It is very comfortable and very wearable in spite of being nearly 175 years old.
Condition: very good, noting that the hinge between the panels of letters “v” and “e” is a replacement, but very well done. However, this does prevent the “book” from staying completely closed, although it can still be worn as a pendant, there is no risk of it unfolding. One diamond is a replacement. There is a small corner detail of the platinum missing. Very light scratches to the metal, consistent with age and normal wear.
Dimensions: 7 ¼” long when open, each plaque is 1 1/16” x 11/16” (22.5mm x 16mm)
Gross weight: 47.1 grams
Hallmarks: French assay marks for 18k gold and platinum, numbered 445 on the tab of the clasp. There is no apparent maker’s mark, possibly English in origin, mid- to late-1800s.