Vintage late 1940s into early 1950s rhinestone choker from Kramer features square cut emerald glass stones, set into an articulated silvertone chain which appears to be rhodium-plated. Closure is a hook-and-box clasp.
The half-bezels of the close-set stones create a faux channel-set effect in the fluid chain, and is a construction typical of earlier, Deco era bracelets but unusual in a necklace. The lovely, deep, and realistic hue of the green rhinestones reflects how Kramer strove to mimic fine jewelry in this period.
As Louis Kramer stated in a 1947 NYTimes article, after WWII the best rhinestones came not from Czechoslovakia but from Austria, with shaped and square cuts sometimes as much as 10 times more expensive than round stones.
The high quality of their rhinestones remained a signature feature of Kramer jewelry into the early 1950s: A 1948 ad notes that Kramer pieces are “distinctive for their gem-cut rhinestones,” while one from 1952 ad about Kramer’s trademark “Diamond Look” line marvels at“its perfection, so closely resembling that of real gems”.
Measuring 14.5” long by ¼” wide, this elegant choker is stamped “Kramer of New York” on a cartouche near the clasp. Excellent condition.
Proud Member of the VFG Vintage Fashion Guild