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Vintage 1950s Lanvin-Castillo/Maria Carine Oatmeal Tweed Suit & Hat Ensemble XS/S
Vintage late 1950s suit in a grey-flecked oatmeal wool tweed with matching pillbox hat was designed by Castillo for the House of Lanvin, and executed as an authorized copy by the Parisian workshop of Maria Carine.
Slim, straight jacket has bracelet length sleeves, flap pockets at the hip, and closes with 2 large, chunky taupe plastic buttons. Pencil skirt has side metal zip and back kick pleat. Both pieces are fully lined in champagne satin.
Jacket bust 35”, shoulders 16”, waist 32”, sleeves 19.5” and length shoulder to hem 25”. Skirt waist 26”, hips 35”, and length 25”.
The matching hat combines the silhouette of a narrow pillbox with the drape of a turban, with a “spiral” of the tweed fabric alternating with (and backed in) black faille. Lined in silver-grey satin, it has two faux tortoise combs to help anchor it to the head and measures 7” in diameter with a depth of 1 ¾” (as it is meant to sit on top of the head, it will fit a range of head sizes).
Label reads “Jeanne Lanvin/Castillo, Execute Par Maria Carine Sur Autorisation Speciale, Paris”; there is additionally a store label which reads “G. Fox & Co. Inc., The Specialty Shop, Fifth Floor”. The skirt has only a size tag in it (a vintage size 10); hat has only the Hartford, Connecticut-based G. Fox department store label in it.
After Jeanne Lanvin’s death in 1946, her daughter Marie-Blanche (now the Comtesse de Polignac) ran the House of Lanvin, and in 1950 took on the Spanish designer Antonio del Castillo as couturier, a position he remained in until 1963. Maria Moutet-Chenu, the young Frenchwoman behind the Maria Carine workshop, executed the designs not only of Lanvin/Castillo, but of Jacques Heim, Jean Desses, and Guy Laroche, and her work was finished by hand with couture techniques, though at a price far more accessible than those custom made for private clients of the couture houses.
This elegant, classic, and beautifully made suit is in excellent condition with no flaws to note.
Proud Member of the VFG Vintage Fashion Guild
Gender: Female, Age Group: Adult, Color: oatmeal, Size: xs/s
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