Vintage c.1963-4 three piece wool tweed spring suit from Jacques Tiffeau features a bright gun club check in red, aqua, green and yellow on a soft white ground.
The short, boxy jacket has notched lapels and bracelet length set-in sleeves, and closes with 4 knob-shaped green plastic buttons. The skirt has a ¾” waistband and onseam pockets hidden in the soft pleats in front, and closes with a side nylon zipper.
In solid aqua, the coordinating wool jersey shell has a cropped, almost geometric cut, with squared armscyes, panel-like pairs of side seams, and a horizontal yoke seam in place of bust darts. It closes with 7 fabric loops and matching plastic buttons, knob-shaped like the jacket buttons but aqua instead of green here.
All three pieces are lined, the skirt and jacket in white satin and the shell in matching aqua satin. The jacket and shell are both labelled “Tiffeau-Busch Ltd, New York”, and the jacket has a 1963-1974 ILGWU tag.
Though French-born Jacques Tiffeau trained in the couture and assisted Dior in the late 40s (he later turned down an offer to replace YSL there), he chose to work in ready-to-wear. He began in 1952 as a pattern-maker and then designer for high-end coat and suit maker Monte-Sano and Pruzan and then, with his boss’ daughter, Beverly Busch, launched Tiffeau-Busch Ltd. in 1958 while keeping his "old" job as well. The label continued until 1971, with Busch “producing” Tiffeau's designs, and if his designs for Monte-Sano & Pruzan tended toward the elegant and classic, those for Tiffeau-Busch were more fashion-forward and geared to a younger woman.
Tiffeau-Busch showed 3 piece ensembles in brightly colored tweeds in its spring 1963 collection, and I believe this suit was part of that collection. Articles about the following spring's collection describe Tiffeau’s skirts as “almost kilt-length” (ie shorter than the one being offered here), and by 1965 his hemlines had risen to mid-thigh!
Measurements of the suit are as follows:
Jacket bust 35”, shoulders 14.5”, sleeves 21”, waist (across bottom hem) 38”, and length from center back at bottom of collar to hem 20”.
Skirt waist 24”, hips 34” and length 23” (with a 1 ½” hem allowance).
Shell bust 34”, waist (across bottom) 32” and length from center back to hem 17”.
Condition is very good, with one moth graze near the front hem of the shell (see photo #8). In addition, the jacket lining has been replaced by a professional seamstress, who has reattached the union label underneath the designer’s label instead of at a side seam.
Proud Member of the VFG Vintage Fashion Guild
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