Late Victorian black wool tuxedo jacket reflects the growing acceptance, towards the end of the 19th century, of this semi-formal wear alternative to the snug-fitting tailcoat.
Cut like a single breasted sack coat, straight, boxy, and with a cutaway hem in front, it has neither pockets nor any closures. The lapels of its shawl collar are faced in silk grosgrain.
The sleeves have faux 4” cuffs, each accented by a pair of silk covered flat buttons. The black silk-lined interior has 2 chest welt pockets lined in brown cotton, and the sleeves are lined in white cotton.
Underneath an evening jacket like this, a gentleman would have worn a white shirt and white or black bow tie to match his waistcoat—or perhaps, if he was a fashion maverick, his cummerbund. No labels, though a museum inventory tag is present.
Measurements are as follows: Chest 40”, shoulders 18”, sleeves 22”, waist 42”, length (center back from top of collar to hem) 30.5”.
Fair condition, sturdy and with the lining intact but still best for costume or study, due to the following issues: Wear to the ribbed silk facing (one pinhole on the right lapel and some ravelling along the back collar edge); 6 pinholes to the fabric (4 on the left front and 2 near the center seam in back); and one ¼” moth hole to the left sleeve just above the cuff. In addition, there are faint, pale stains scattered over the bottom front. Please see photos #7 and #8 for closeups of these issues.
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Antique through Vintage Fashion & Jewelry