Late 1910s or early 1920s black wool winter cap features 8 panel construction with snap down visor and astrakhan cloth-trimmed ear flaps that turn up or down and tie on top. It was made by British hatmaking firm J. Collett Ltd. and sold by Marshall Field & Co.
Lined in black silk (and with an interlining as well), the crown of the cap has a slightly squared shape and flattens almost flush with the edge of the visor. The birdcage style brass snap that secures the crown is stamped “Scovill Mfg Co” (Scovill began manufacturing snaps as early as 1850).
The astrakhan cloth lines both the ear flaps and the turn-down cuff in back of the cap, and the ear flaps tie on top with short lengths of black faille ribbon (7” on one side and 5.5” on the other).
Measurements are: Inner circumference 22”, visor width 2.75” in front, crown depth 4” (6.5” when back is turned down), and ear flaps 4.5” from the base to the tip of the triangle.
The lining is embossed with the “coat of arms” of J. Collett Ltd (a variant on the British coat of arms with its lion and unicorn on either side of a crown-topped shield), and has the name “Collett” in script underneath. J Collett Ltd. was a British hatmaker in business from 1917 through the 1970s (during WWII, they were Britain’s largest hat manufacturers (and providing a great deal of hats to the military). Underneath this logo are the words “Marshall Field & Co, Chicago”.
Many thanks to my friends and colleagues at the Vintage Fashion Guild, who helped me decipher the extremely faded, nearly illegible logo!
A museum deaccession, the hat also has a cloth inventory tag, next to which are the remnants of a brown paper (size?) label.
Excellent condition, clean, free of any moth damage, and with the lining intact.
Proud Member of the VFG Vintage Fashion Guild
Vintage c. 1920 Black Wool 8 Panel Flat Cap w/Ear Flaps J. Collett/Marshall Field