Dating to c.1740-1750, I am thrilled to present this incredibly rare Georgian hessonite garnet-set "oil and vinegar" bow-motif pendant jewel for the consideration of my Ruby Lane clientele!
Measuring 1 3/4" x 1 5/8" with the pearl and garnet drop, this pendant represents a very rarely-seen genre of mid-Georgian jewelry. Known as "oil and vinegar" for the luminous mix of red and gold, this combination is sometimes found in paste jewelry of the era, but this is the first example I have ever handled which boasts genuine gemstones as well as pearls! This example truly represents the needle in the proverbial haystack, and the design has become a classic!
The center of this Sevigne-style bow is set with a large button pearl measuring 11.5 mm x 13 mm, and is pin-set into a rubbed-over, closed-backed collet of silver gilt (sterling-grade silver gilded with high karat gold). The "ribbons" are set with 13 hessonite garnets, which flash a vibrant shade of red-orange, and are set above gold foils for that special "oil and vinegar" look! The 12 garnets set in the ribbons are magnificently hand-cut and faceted into rose cuts for that extra punch of glitter, and all are set in rubbed-over, closed-backed collets of silver gilt. The foundation also boasts two small streaming ribbons below, making this jewel oh-so-feminine!
The drop features one round hessonite garnet measuring approx. 4 mm, terminating in a second button pearl measuring 9 mm in diameter. The reverse of the pendant retains it's original fold-over bail, as well as the original slides; a lady of wealth and fashion could wear it as a pendant, or utilize the slides to have her lady's maid sew it onto the bodice on her gown. JUST SPLENDID!
When I acquired this jewel on my recent shopping trip to England, the dealer (who is also an expert in early jewelry) had dated it to c.1700, but in my experience, "oil and vinegar" jewels did not come into fashion until c.1730. It is nothing short of a miracle that this jewel has made it into the 21st-century in all-original condition; there are no replacements or repairs after 280 years of careful wear. Today, it looks fantastic worn on an 18" gold chain, and is suitable for day or evening. Those rose-cut garnets flash with every angle of the light! This jewel weighs in at 9.65 grams.
Simply a phenomenal example of the jewelry of the middle of the 18th century, this jewel is so rare that I wish I could keep it for my own collection, but "'tis the season," so let my loss be your gain! If you love the BEST in Georgian jewelry, this beauty belongs around your neck and in our collection! It would also make a thrilling holiday gift for any lady fond of fine historic jewelry, and will be shipped in a gift box. (I will also be listing a pair of 1740s mother of pearl earrings this weekend that match this pendant splendidly!) Do not miss this rarity; I never expect to find another like it, up to 60-day layaway is available, and USPS Priority mail shipping is FREE!
Your Specialists in Fine Jewelry and Decorative Arts from Antiquity - 1900. Est. 1987.
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