Friday's Joy

Byzantine-Turkish 900 Silver Wheat Chain/Medallions Necklace

$400

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Byzantium was the ancient trade and transit center which was colonized by the Greeks and became Constantinople (approximately 395CE to 1453).
The Byzantine Empire made great contributions to civilization. They preserved ancient knowledge of Greek language and culture for future generations—catalyzing in the Middle Ages and Renaissance—and they also made brilliant innovations in architecture and art. The Byzantines gave us mosaics.
A marvelous thing about jewelry is that it can carry the Zeitgeist of a long-past era into the present. Over five and a half centuries after the Ottoman Empire conquered Byzantium, its styles still endure. This necklace preserves the spirit of camel trains on the Silk Road, and of Marco Polo.
Probably dates to the thirties.
Nine strands of beautifully woven fox-tail chain are held parallel in a band just over a half inch (12.7mm) wide by 12 lozenge-shaped medallions (.25" by .75"/12.7mm x 19mm). At center, three wider medallions 11/16" tall by 1" wide (17.5mm by 25.4mm) bear a floral motif with dogwood flowers at centers.
These medallions don't appear to have been cast, because their detail is too fine and they lack mold-seams. Their motifs are close copies of each other, but not quite identical: look closely to see they were embossed by hand. Their patterns of minute granulations are also slightly but distinctly different. These were applied to the medallions' surfaces by hand.
Also note is that each medallion is set to hold the chains in a splay that conforms to the neck. (Were they mounted any differently, the chains wouldn't lie flat against your contours.) Many hours of expert labor were invested in this necklace's fabrication. Every medallion's back is hand-stamped with the number 900, indicating silver purity. Coin silver is also 90% pure, so necklace MIGHT have been made from coins. The piece's poost-and-hinge clasp is also an anachronism. Recent reproductions typically have a tongue-in box fastening.
Length: 17.25" (43.81cm).
Weight: 107.1 grams.

Necklace, dogwood, Byzantine
Item id: N278
Type: Estate, Fine
Color: Silver
Style: Ethnic, Tribal, Medieval, Russian Empire
Item type: Vintage
Material: 900 Silver