A vintage Sterling silver Coro Craft Rock Fish Brooch, designed by Adolf Katz and a collectible sought after book piece
This is a lovely example of a vintage 1940's signed CORO CRAFT Rock Fish brooch Pin. This is one of Coro Craft's most iconic pieces. This is an original, not a reproduction piece, as you can see from the eyelets on the back and the closed edges of the fins. Created by chief designer Adolf Katz in 1944 this 'Rock Fish" brooch pin is made from sterling silver, rhinestones and enamel. So striking is this piece that it has been immortalised in many books about costume jewelry. Most notably by Roberto Bruniati in 'American Costume Jewelry: Art & Industry, Vol 1'
The bright fuscia rhinestone eyes contrast beautifully with the large faceted aqua (referred to Azure) glass stone in his mouth. this is complimented by the touches of pink and blue enamel on his gills, fins and tail. Then there is the criss cross patterned scales on his body of golden vermeil peeking through the colourful enamel and clear rhinestones. The detail and craftsmanship are quite breathtaking and therefore no surprise that it is referred to in books so often.
He has a locking 'C' clasp closure and is marked "Sterling Coro Craft" with a pegasus on a rectangular cartouche.He measures a large 3" x 2 1/4".
Sold in good vintage condition retaining its original patina and showing minor age related wear as expected. There are no missing rhinestone or darkened or yellowed stones. The aqua blue mouth rhinestone is intense in its colour and in great condition. Everything is completely original. The clasp works appropriately and holds securely. There have been No repairs.
If you are looking for a real treasure, here's one to cherish!
Coro, a partnership between Emanuel Cohn (the "Co") and Gerald Rosenberg (the "ro"), began producing jewelry in New York in 1901 and continued through the 1970s under the marks Coro, Coro Craft (later Corocraft), and Vendome, among others. Although Vendome was the company's high-end line, some of the most sought-after pieces today are the Coro pieces, especially the Duettes, the company produced in the 1930s and 1940s.
The reason for much of Coro’s early success was Adolph Katz, who became the company’s design director in 1924, and Gene Verri, who designed for Coro from 1933 until 1963. Katz created Coro’s en tremblant floral pins, which featured tiny metal springs that allowed elements of the pin to vibrate or tremble when its wearer moved.
Corocraft was the next step up in quality, price, and prestige from Coro. Under the Corocraft brand, Coro introduced a line of Jelly Belly pins that were similar to those made by Trifari, right down to the Lucite "belly." Whereas most vintage Coro pieces were built on metal frames, vintage Corocraft pins and bracelets were often made of sterling silver or plated in gold. As for the rhinestones, Coro Craft ads from the late 1940s refer to these as "Diadem Jewels" to give its line of cut glass the allusion of royal lineage and status.
Vendome, which was introduced in 1944 and replaced Corocraft in 1953, was the top of the Coro line. This was serious, simulated bling, featuring rhinestone-studded chokers, cabochon-festooned silver-plated bangles, and, by the 1960s, a set of six gold-plated pins designed by Vendome’s Helen Marion, who was inspired by the work of the great Cubist artist Georges Braque.