You are looking at an early rare 1940s Trifari rhinestone and enamel fur clip. The brooch depicts two open flower heads with slightly cupped, heart shaped petals encrusted with tiny clear crystals, which are enamelled in black around the edges and centered around a cluster of raised clear rhinestone crystals. Long green enamelled grass leaves accent the delicate flowers with their colour. The flower stems are enamelled brown and green and have rhinestone crystal leaves with open cut centres. The flower spray is held together by a small silver toned bow accented with clear crystals.
The brooch measures 2 3/4 inches tall x 1 3/4 inches at it's widest
The back presents with a double prong fur clip and small pin extension to hold the fur pin securely in place
Marked: Trifari with Crown over the T (no copyright symbol)
Sold in good vintage condition, with the enamel in near perfect condition excepting two minor scuffs on the black enamel flower edges. Several of the rhinestones on the leaves and bow are darkened. Sold with it's original stones and settings.
Gustavo Trifari emigrated from Italy to the U.S. in 1904 and founded Trifari NYC in 1910 after being a partner and jewelry designer with his uncle in Trifari & Trifari for several years. Gustavo's grandfather Luigi Trifari, a goldsmith, had a small workshop in Naples during the mid 1800s producing fine jewelry, where Gustavo learned his trade.
in 1917, Leo Krussman joined the Trifari company as a sales director and later became a partner, leading to the formation of the Trifari and Krussman company. A third partner Carl Fishel, an experienced and well known salesman also became a partner in the early 1920s. The company again changed its name to Trifari, Krussman & Fishel.
Trifari was considered one of the largest and best known producers of costume jewellery. It started producing hair ornaments, buckles and bar pins in silver and base metals set with rhinestones and later manufactured a broad range of costume jewelry creating superb designs and workmanship at different price levels. The Trifari jewellery produced had a distinctive look, resembling fine jewellery, which can easily be recognised by collectors. Much of this is due to the work of the great designer, Alfred Phillipe, who worked and designed jewellery for Trifari for approximately 38 years from 1930 to 1968, using high quality imported Swarovski Crystals that were handset in the jewellery pieces. Philippe worked as a designer of fine jewellery for Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels, and bought to Trifari many imaginative ideas. He is largely responsible for the creation and development of Trifari's distinctive classic look. There were also other well known designers who joined Trifari: Jean Paris (1958-1965), Andre Beouf (1967-1979), who had worked for Cartier, and Diane Love (1971-1974) who designed the company's modern and contemporary jewellery in the early 1970s. Up until the 1960s Trifari led the world in the industry of costume jewelry producing the highest quality and styles from imaginative sterling vermeil figurals of the 1940's to its classic gold and silver tone jewellery of modern times. The Trifari figurals, retro florals and jelly bellies from the 1930s and 1940s are avidly sought after today by collectors. The Trifari company was purchased by Hallmark in the late 1970s, Crystal Grands Jewelry Corp in 1988, Chase Capital Partners, Lattice Holding Division of he Monet Group 1994 and Liz Clairborne in July 2000 when production was finally moved out of the US.