This classic Art Deco jewel, dating from the peak of the period, circa 1925, sparkles spectacularly with just over 7.5 carats of bright white European-cut diamonds arrayed over an artful geometric design, handmade in gleaming platinum and finished with millgrain detail on all the calibre set gemstones. This is when the edges of the metal have been worked with a knurling tool to produce tiny beads, hence the French name “millgrain” meaning a thousand beads.
The bracelet is composed of 25 individually shaped pierced decorated links, set in 3 blocks linked together by 3 square pave set diamond links. The bracelet secures with a discreet integrated hinged push fit clasp and safety chain and catch.
The bracelet is just shy of 1/2 inch wide (7/16 by 7 inches)
The bracelet weighs 30.4 grams
The bracelet is hallmarked for Platinum
The history of Art Deco Jewelry
The great jewelers of Paris had first rebelled in the late 19th century against the later years of the Victorian era’s industrial revolution and assembly line feeling. The result came to be called Art Nouveau, an explosive mix of unconventional precious and non-precious materials, gemstones, different types of enameling, free flowing lines and naturalistic, sometimes fantastical motifs. The proponents were the great jewelers of the time, including Rene Lalique, George Fouquet, Henri Verver and Lucien Gaillard who brought imagination and art back into design. The rest of Europe and America followed. The Art Nouveau aesthetic overlapped with the swirling femininity and embellishments of the Edwardian/Belle Époque and the great works of Boucheron, Chaumet and Cartier. But after WWI, something new was needed to match the fast pace of the machine age, the speed of travel and modern times.
Although the shift from the more flowing lines of Art Nouveau and the ornamental feeling of Belle Époque began as early as 1920, it was the Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris in 1925 that promoted the new movement by jewelers at the exhibition who produced some of the most influential styles of the day: Raymond Templier, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Jean Fouquet, Jeanne Bovin, Suzanne Belperron, Boucheron and Chaumet. While each house had its own interpretation of Art Deco jewelry, there was a unified movement toward streamlined circular or linear looks in all white or black and white: platinum, rock crystal, onyx, and mixed cuts of white diamonds. The jazz age and new concepts in fine art and architecture such as cubism and futurism with its geometric forms and angular lines all impacted the designs. As jewelers moved into the 1930s, Art Deco was further stimulated by a global mix of cultures including Asia, Africa and Egypt. This approach softened the geometric lines with stylized florals, carved cabochons and figurative motifs, which were part of the intricate compositions of each design. Vibrant rubies and sapphires as well as onyx, jade, lapis and frosted quartz contrasted against white diamonds represented the Art Deco movement until 1939. But it is a time in the history of jewelry that is the most relevant and influential for those who collect jewelry and for contemporary designers to reference as they work to shape the modernity of today.
Art Deco Diamond and Platinum Bracelet
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