What a rare treat this pendant is, it Is Spectacular... This large pendant is completely original. It boasts all natural Faceted Amethyst, Un-dyed natural rubies, diamonds and natural pearls..
I brought this piece to my long time bench jeweler who also happens to be a certified GIA gemologist. He was extremely impressed. I have not sent this for a formal report but because my jeweler who also specializes in natural pearls has assured me they are in fact natural. The piece was made well prior to when cultured pearls made their way on the scene. There are 7 pearls the largest is 14 x 15mm. The two below are 9mm's. Then two 11mm pearls and lastly moving down are 2 11mm pearls. The bottom 2 pearls are surrounded by floral shaped flower rings, each with a tiny foil backed diamond table cut chip. In crown like fashion there is a triple row of diamonds and rubies. The 4 rubbed over rubies are rose cut and stand up the highest. Two rows of rubbed over small diamonds are above and below the rubies. Below the pearls is a wreath of natural rubies. All are foil backed in collect or silver (rubbed over settings). There are 2 extra large and beautifully fine light purple amethysts. The top faceted smaller stone measure 9 x 11 x 5 mm’s deep. That is equivalent to a 3 carat faceted stone. Below for the finale is the largest amethyst which measures 18 x 15 x 6 mm are deep. This is an 11 carat stone.
The pendant measures 2 3/4" Long from the top of the bale (which includes a matching diamond) x 1 1/2" across. It weighs 22.2 grams. The mount is made of silver and is 800 or 900 per European standards. It is lovely that the 2 large amethysts are open backed. So much light is allowed to flood through. Not many jewelers of the period understood the benefit of open backed mounts. During the late Victorian / Early Edwardian periods, open back mounts were all the rage and jewelers have not gone back...
Condition... It is in excellent condition for its age. The pearl on the left side, bottom, there is Nacre loss. I will say that in hand it is far less noticeable than in these super sized enlarged photos. Please remember, these pearls were picked for their natural beauty and not to be a perfectly round Akoya pearls.. These are all different shapes and sizes but all beautiful in their own way. Found in the ocean, not in a bed.... All of the rubies and diamonds were hand cut for this mount. They are small but mighty! All of the pearls still have beautiful rainbow luster, all their own personalities...
Someone (at least 100 years ago) decided she would like her jeweler to add a open C-clasp and hinge so she could wear it as a brooch. Well, that did not work out very well for her. The pendant was too heavy for the pin and when I purchased it, the open C-clasp was still remaining on the left side of the back. The hinge and pin had come off. My bench jeweler simply removed the C Clasp with his laser machine and now it is back to original. I'm sure that if the new owner decides she would like to wear it as a brooch, stronger materials could be used to create a new pin and locking clasp.
This is quite an early piece and is circa 1760. I have been through all of my Georgian jewelry books. I believe it may have been made in Portugal, early on before the French invasion in 1809. Or, because of how the rubies and diamonds are set, it may have been made in Spain. Some of the finest jewels came out of these countries and of course they were famous for their glorious Girandole brooches and earrings.. Pendant measures 2 3/4" x 1 1/2" across. It Weighs 22.2 grams of 800-900 silver.
Without question, and one of the finest Georgian pendants I have had. Simply slip a piece of antique velvet or ribbon through and this will be a necklace that will be noticed. It really is grand.. Questions are always welcome and encouraged.
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