Art Deco collar necklace with sparkling clear rhinestones and coral and black Bakelite accents, marked DRGM. DRGM is the German patent mark and business model protection mark (Deutsches Reich Geschmack Muster) used from 1891 until WW2. It has come to represent a stylish jewelry genre most commonly displayed in clear rhinestones and a silver-colored, zinc alloy. The designs are sleek, sophisticated, and timeless-- Art Deco design at its best. The DRGM pieces with Bakelite inserts are deemed most desirable.
New information about the makers of these jewels has just come to light. Barbara Schwartz and Robin Deutsch have published an article revealing Schreiber and Hiller of Pforzheim as the designers of these pieces, as well as the Esha Randel line of jewelry. Go to Trufaux Jewels for all the fascinating details. We owe them a debt of gratitude for their research.
This necklace combines five pairs of colored Bakelite links with bright clear rhinestones. The Bakelite shapes are actually separate, a square horseshoe shape and a wide t-shape. Originally black and coral in color, the coral has faded with age to a brownish hue. (Note: The color in my pictures is not accurate, because my lighting brightens them considerably.) It is still very attractive.
The necklace measures 15-1/2" clasped, constructed to curve, and 5/8" at widest. Each rhinestone link has four stones, angled on the ends. A few rhinestones have been replaced, but they blend in well. Overall, the rhinestones are bright and sparkling, none dead, yellow, or dark.
My jeweler has replaced the top of the clasp with sterling, and a new push button to open. The patent mark and DRGM mark remain.
Necklaces like this are rare finds.
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