A gorgeous brooch dating to c1905, in perfect condition. The sinuous Art Nouveau design of a stylised flower and leaf is set with sparkling round diamonds framed in calibre-cut and pavé-set rubies.
This particular combination of gems nearly always signifies undying and everlasting passion and the trefoil flower (perhaps a lotus) may well signify something too, although at this time there was a move away from the romantic language of flowers so favoured in Victorian jewellery towards an ethos of beauty for beauty's sake; surely the essence of the Art Nouveau movement.
All the stones here are fantastic quality, beautifully cut and painstakingly hand set. The bright white diamonds are superb; it's impossible to grade set stones 100% accurately but certainly there are no inclusions visible with a jeweller's loupe. Whoever made this piece showed real attention to detail so it makes sense that they would have selected quality materials. The setting around the diamonds has been coloured in a kind of anodised blue which is very unusual and this makes them appear even more twinkly.
The main body of the pin is 18-carat gold with the front settings in silver to show the diamonds at their best (this is normal for pieces of the period, platinum wasn't easily available or utilised for another ten years or so). The piece is unmarked as far as we can see but this is not unusual for small, delicate, antique pieces.
Size: 3 x 2.5cm (approx one inch high), on a fine 2.5 inch safety chain. Also fixes with a firm C clasp at the back.
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