This extremely handsome brooch is a stunning vintage example of the iconic modernist ‘MÖBIUS’ design originally created for Georg Jensen in 1969 by Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube in heavy, beautifully sculpted solid sterling silver. This design is a fluid, infinite shape and a magnificent innovative example representative of the mathematical Mobius shape with 'one surface and one edge'. Ever changing patterns of light are reflected on its swirling wave of highly polished silver. This is the large size #374 and makes a real statement - a true collector’s piece in utterly perfect condition.
With a small adjustment from a jeweler, this piece could also easily be made into a wonderful pendant with the addition of a ring on the back.
For a piece of this age, the condition is absolutely exceptional ‘as new’ without any micro surface scratching and is so perfect that it appears never to have been worn. It is clearly stamp marked with the Georg Jensen oval mark surrounded by dots, 925S Sterling, Denmark, Torun for the designer and the model number for the large size of this design which is 374. This design was introduced to the Jensen collection in 1969 and an identical piece was exhibited at the Retrospective Jewelry Exhibition at the Bard Center, New York in 2005.
Measures: 2.5” x 2.25” – Weight: 48g / 1.595 Troy
The designer Vivianne Torun (1927-2004) was Sweden's first female silversmith who introduced this design to the Georg Jensen modernist collection in 1969 and this design was in production until ca.1980.
However, a clear provenance tells that this particular brooch was purchased in the very early 1970's and comes from the estate of a renowned member of the fashion world who was one of only a handful of women at the top end of the U.S. fashion industry from the early 1960’s onward. This remarkable woman made history by becoming the first woman vice-president in charge of design and merchandising in all divisions of the country’s largest show corporation – US Shoe. This exceptional lady was totally dedicated to fashion and cutting edge design, travelling the world, both for her work and in constant pursuit of adding special pieces to her significant collection of fashion, jewelry and objets d’art, many of which will be offered in the shop over the coming months.
Please see below for a biography of the fascinating life of outstanding designer who created this piece.
Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube, known as Torun was born in 1927 in Sweden. In 1945 she began her studies at Konstfack, the School of Arts, Crafts and Design in Stockholm. In 1948, Torun spent the summer in Paris meeting Picasso, Braque, Matisse and the other great artists of the day. As early as 1952, Torun exhibited her jewelry, made both in Stockholm and France (and bearing hallmarks from each country) in Paris. She designed jewelry for among others, Billie Holiday, which Holiday wore when she performed. Torun renewed her acquaintance with Picasso who lived in the area and an exhibition of Torun jewelry was held at the Picasso museum in Antibes from 1958 to 1960. From 1954 to 1968 she had a permanent display on the Boulevard St. Germain.
Her jewelry also often took on a sculptural aspect, necklaces that would twirl like a mobile when suspended by their highest point, fluid designs that seemed to "pour" and flow around the curves of a woman's body. It was perhaps primarily for this mobile necklace that in 1961 she won the prestigious "Nobel Prize" of arts and crafts, The Lunning Prize, after taking a Gold Medal at the Triennial in Milan. The Lunning Prize, honored individuals who had "pioneered a unique artistic contribution". Beginning in 1967, Torun's production was taken over by Georg Jensen silver and her first designs for Jensen appeared in 1969. In 1992 Torun was awarded the Prince Eugen medal by King Carl XVI Gustav of Sweden. The medal is bestowed for outstanding artistic achievement. In September of 1992 Georg Jensen in Copenhagen held an exhibition to celebrate 25 years of Torun's association with the company, 45 years of working with silver and her 65th birthday. From October 1992 to January 1993, the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in the Louvre held a 45 year retrospective of Torun's remarkable work.
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