“THE BEAUTY IS IN THE CONSTRUCTION” – FRANK HESS (1926-1960 HASKELL’S HEAD DESIGNER)
From my personal collection– This magnificent Miriam Haskell brooch was purchased at an auction and was a welcome addition to my collection of Haskell not easy to find early jewelry designs. I decided to bid on it even though it was missing a number of the aquamarine crystals. Subsequently, I was assured by the expert, who authenticated the brooch, that replacing the missing crystals with identical color, size and vintage ones would not diminish its market value. I did follow his advice and the result had surpassed my expectations.
A year ago, having decided to liquidate my vintage fine and costume jewelry collections, I opened The Vintage Cornucopia site on Ruby Lane, trusting that here my collection will find new and loving owners. Thus, the offer of this stunning brooch.
It is constructed, in the best tradition of Haskell’s jewelry, on her signature design gold plated ,ornate on both sides, metal base and is shaped as a crescent moon. Its surface is prong set with luminous Swarovski Aquamarine round , various size crystals and topped by a lustrous round and sizable aqua moonstone. The moonstone is prong set in petal-like metal prongs and is surrounded by 6 medium size crystals, creating an impression of a large flower. All the other aqua crystals are prong set , in ornate prongs, like a flower around a larger aqua crystal “stamen” and their individual bases are affixed to the central base. This beautiful design follows the nature theme, which had become the focal point of most of the Haskell’s handmade jewelry designs. The obverse side of the brooch has a MIRIAM HASKELL signed oval cartouche. The total look of the brooch is breathtaking. I apologize for the brief description but each laudatory word I would add could not properly describe it and make it justice. This is why I hope that the enclosed pictures would be worth a “thousand words”.
You are welcome to browse our store and enjoy our diverse selection of vintage fine and costume jewelry by renowned American and International designers. Please ask us with any questions. Thank you for your patronage.
DIMENSIONS: Brooch: 2.25” tall x 2.25” wide. Moonstone cabochon: 15 mm: Faceted Aqua Swarovski Cabochons: 10 mm, 7 mm, 4 mm and 2 mm.
MATERIALS: Gold plated and lacquered (typical to Haskell’s designs) base metal: Round faceted Swarovski Crystals: Round Glass Moonstone cabochon.
VINTAGE AND CONDITION: According to the expert’s evaluation, the broch was made sometime between 1947-1955. It is in a good vintage condition, with no scratches or dents. The structure is strong but , like any intricate vintage jewelry of over 70 years old, it should be handled with care. Half of one of the prongs of the smaller flower is missing but the damage is so slight that is hardly visible. The brooch will be carefully wrapped and shipped in an elegant jewelry gift box.
ABOUT MIRIAM HASKELL CO. (1926- PRESENT)- Not unlike the French Coco Chanel, Miriam Haskell (1899-1981) began her career as a milliner. Needing embellishments for her couture hats, she began creating handmade jewelry and, -- the rest is history. And, like Coco Chanel in France, she became a doyenne of American fashion jewelry. In 1926, joined by Frank Hess as her Head Designer, their almost 40 years’ collaboration had produced a unique, exquisite, intricate, complex, and impeccably handcrafted jewelry brand. The Haskell jewelry of that era is characterized by a very elaborate and unusual use of metal, beads, faux pearls, and rhinestones. Until 1947, Haskell jewelry was unsigned, a fact that had produced many imitations, erroneously considered by many as “unsigned” Haskell. Since 1947, all of Haskell jewelry bears her signature mark or a hang tag. Miriam Haskell and Frank Hass had retired in 1960’s and the company has had a succession of very creative and prolific head designers, not least of which was Lawrence Vrba (1970-1980). Millie Petronzio who became the head designer of the company from 1980-2010 had reintroduced a magnificent Retro Line of traditional Miriam Haskell designs with a modern twist.
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