This antique, mid 1880's black lace mourning jacket is a size medium. Measurements in inches: Bust 36, waist 32, Sleeve length from shoulder to cuff 24 and length from center back to hem is 32 inches. Note: restoration needed. Please read notes below on condition.
All original and over 120 years old.
This is a larger size than is generally found. It is recommended for a size MEDIUM; not a large. Measurements were taken laying the jacket flat and measuring straight across. This is a STRONGLY dart fitted garment. A corset would have been worn underneath.
In very good condition because it is made primarily of cotton lace; which has survived surprisingly well.
In wearable condition with a few repairs. All black lace outer with black silk lining. One piece jacket is meant to be worn over a floor length skirt.
Jacket has front hook and eye closure and is strongly darted at the waist both front and back. Lace collar and covering over the front closure is gathered to a nice flounce.
Self fabric accents are gathered at the cap of the shoulder. Wrist length sleeves are fitted and have a lace flounce at the cuff.
Jacket is cut long; meant to fall to mid thigh. The same lace trims the bottom. All of the wide lace trim has a scalloped, self finished hem. There are four stays or boning pieces. These are covered with a cotton fabric.
Lining is black silk and is in remarkable condition for it's age. There is one pea size hole and one long stressed, frayed area about 1/2 inch X 4 inches. I recommend reinforcing all seams if you want to wear this piece. Boning re-enforcement at the waist is covered with fabric and is sewn into place. Some stitches are undone on the boning. White fabric reinforcement ribbon for the boning, seams a/o inside edges can be seen in the last two pictures.
The cotton lace is strong with a few small tears that would be almost invisible with a few hand stitches. One or two hooks or eyes need to be replaced. Most of them are there and hold well. Once again, these are sewn to silk and will not stand for much stress.
I believe originally there was a separate, standing collar attached at the neckline. It was likely removable for washing purposes. Lightweight, black buckram shows around the neckline where this would have been placed. The buckram would have been covered by the collar.
There is some fading to this buckram as well as on one side of the flounce. It is slightly lighter than the rest of the lace.
Lining is very, very good; even around the arm holes. However, it is silk and, will need to be replaced if the garment is worn much. Silk of this era shatters easily if stressed.
Overall condition: wearable, with care and a few repairs. No stains and no odor. Again: holes are noted above and I recommend reinforcing inside seams to make this wearable.
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