An extremely rare and early Christian Dior ruby, emerald and clear paste set brooch with glass pearls and glass pearl drop. This is a heavy brooch of superior quality.
The construction and design features indicate this brooch was designed by Roger Jean Pierre for Dior in the early 1950's. The two circular tiers are wire linked and not soldered, which is an early construction feature of Roger Jean Pierre. The brooch is fitted with a French trombone pin and is marked Made in France at the base of the outer ring. The double prong setting to the central cabachon is also an RJP feature, as are the foiled back stones and style of claw settings.
Roger Jean Pierre was one of the foremost jewellery designers used by Christian Dior to design pieces to accompany his couture collections. Pieces were unsigned and we are left to attribute pieces based on design and construction.
The inner section of the brooch is set with a central ruby poured glass cabachon, a circlet of 8mm glass pearls and large oval and emerald paste stones intersperced with clear paste baguettes and smaller round ruby pastes. The outer section is set with alternating large oval ruby and emerald pastes and 8mm glass pearls. A large and heavy tear drop glass pearl is suspended at the base. The frame is heavily gold plated.
This rare early piece is in excellent condition with minimal signs of wear.
Size: 2.3/4 inch diameter and drop of 1.1/2 inch.
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Art Deco and decorative Arts; Art Deco and Vintage Costume Jewelry