This is a magnificent early Miriam Haskell Necklace & Earrings set by Frank Hess, dating to late 1940's/ early 1950's.
Four strands of beads; faux Baroque pearls with tiny gold spacers, translucent amber glass hearts, metal spacers and two small amber beads between each heart, and an opaque mustard yellow glass with spacers; the last is a vibrant semi opaque orange with round beads separated by four flat disc beads, all with two metal spacers between each bead.
All four strands are hand wired into two gilt filigree caps.
There is an unsigned 'J' hook, typical of late 40s -- 50s construction, and a five bead extender. The necklace is quite long -- it measures, with extender a full 2 feet and 8 inches!
The earrings with orange yellow and amber heart beads are hand wired to a double gilt filigree base with three sizes of Baroque pearls also hand wired to the base. The beads dangle from the base all with gold tone end caps. The earrings have a French clip and both are signed Miriam Haskell on the round metal end. They measure1.3/4 inches long, with drops.
We date this set to the late 40s -- early 50s. The distinctive signature on the ear clips, the unsigned "J" hook and the style of extender to the necklace
Gordon and Pamfiloff date this Frank Hess innovation to the early post war period. Further information on the construction and dating of Haskell jewelry can be found in the excellent book Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Gordon & Pamfiloff on pages 60, 62, and 82.
This necklace is in excellent condition -- no signs of verdigris and no nacre loss to the pearls.
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Art Deco and decorative Arts; Art Deco and Vintage Costume Jewelry