A very beautiful large diamond brooch, c. 1920, set with 101 old-cut diamonds weighing approximately 9.00 carats total. The wonderfully ornate arabesque design has bright cutting and milgrain edges weaving throughout the open work. The three largest diamonds, set in the center and ends of the belly, each weigh about 0.85 carat; and on each end, two more each weigh about 0.59 carat. All have approximate J-K color and SI2 clarity; one of the smaller end ones is chipped at one prong. The remaining 98 diamonds are a mixture of old cutting styles, including full-, single- and rose-cut. Along with the beautiful piercing, the airlines on the side, and the trombone hinge and catch, the workmanship speaks of the craftsmanship of the time in jewelry-making history when platinum was hand-wrought to render intricate, lacy patterns that diamonds made come alive.
On one edge is the figure of a classical mask, which was the French import mark for 95% platinum in use from 1912 to 1926. The assay office indicated is Paris. The 18-karat white gold pin stem bears the figure of an owl, which is the French import mark for that gold fineness. On one end is a single-loop bail (acid-tested as platinum) that allows the piece to be worn as a pendant, hanging with its length vertical to the eye.
Dazzling, yet light and airy! What a special piece when worn on black! What a collector's piece!
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