Unusual Antique Essex Crystal Pendant

Jewelry : Antique : Fine : Victorian

 

Essex crystals (sometimes referred to as reverse painted crystals) have been sought after and collected for more than 150 years. Originating in the mid 1800s, their popularity remained in full force until the 1930s. During this time the level of quality varied, ranging from the finest of hand-carved and hand painted pieces to later date pressed glass imitations. Typical carved motifs for men were usually of a racing horse, game bird or dog and those for women depicted a floral design or monogram. Later examples showed an insect or a coaching scene.

The subject matter for this late 19th century brooch is both unusual and rare. Truly a piece of fine art in the miniature, a cabochon of clear rock crystal has been carved on the flat side and hand-painted in the vibrant colors of the European Robin or as it was originally known in the 15th century, Robin redbreast. The intaglio is deeply carved and the detail quite astounding as the Robin roosts upon a branch jutting out from a tree trunk surrounded by small branches and even tinier leaves. The coloring is subtle and superbly realistic, the bird so life-like, poised and on the ready to burst into his fluting, warbling melody in hope of attracting a mate.

The pronounced three-dimensional trompe l’oeil effect has been enhanced with a thin layer of mother of pearl as backing. When viewed from the front an amazing sense of depth is perceived. Set into an oval 18k yellow gold pendant ornamented with gold beading and twisted rope work, the reverse reveals locket back or hair compartment lined with fabric, the hair lost in the folds of time. Engraved in ornate capital letters on the gold surround is “A MARK OF ESTEEM TO NURSE NIALL 1893” with the initials “M.D.M.”.

Uncommonly large and substantial in weight, few of these sizeable Essex crystals exist today.

Measurements: 2-5/16 inches (5.9 cm) in length by 1-5/16 inches (3.4 cm) in width by 7/16 of an inch (1.2 cm) in depth. This antique pendant has a weight of 31.0 grams (19.9 dwt).

Hallmarks: Engraved "A Mark of Esteem to Nurse Niall 1893" and the initials, "M.D.M."

Condition: Very good; bale has a slightly different gold tone than the body of pendant; a bit of wear and scratching to top bale; crystal has a few scratches not visible when worn (see close side photo).

Date & Origin: Circa 1893 and is English in origin.

Overall Scale: Large and weighty

Item ID: 11625