REDUCED Mourning Hairwork Brooch with Black and White Enamel C-Clasp Circa 1870

Jewelry : Antique : Mourning : Hairwork

 

This item will be removed from inventory at the end of October if not sold. Offers Welcomed!

This petite brooch, measuring a little over 3/4" long and 1/2" tall, is an interesting and charming piece. The brooch is likely circa 1870; there is a similar one pictured in a reprint of an A. Bernhard & Co. catalog page from 1870 on page 252 of C. Jeanne Bell's book: "Collector's Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry". The mounting pictured is described as "enamel box and glass". She also pictures almost identical brooches on pages 94 (plate 212) and 98 (plate 238). The brooch in hand differs in that it is smaller in size and has 2 tone enamel coloration rather than the usual one. The center of the brooch contains the hair which, under a bright light and loupe, appears to be teeny rows with some strands loose from the design. All the hair is contained under the bezel. Surrounding the bezel is a gold filled border surrounded by black enamel, surrounded by white enamel surrounded by a gold filled border. The larger black border leads me to believe this is a mourning piece. I love the fact that there are both black and white enamel on this piece - a gentle reminder that there is good even in bad. The fine metal work appears to depict leaves and perhaps a tiny flower at the edges and is very beautiful. The reverse of the piece appears to be gold over brass based on the tarnishing. This lovely little piece does have some "character flaws" shall we say, and they are: tiny scratch on bezel, some enamel wear / loss in the white border and there is an obvious C-Clasp replacement and pin stem replacement. The solder job gave it away. Naturally, there is tarnish on the reverse and in some of the metal work. I do not attempt cleaning on my pieces, preferring to leave that up to you!

Offers welcomed!

Item ID: 824178