SALE RARE PAIR of Flemish Ruby/Emerald Ring Brooches, c.1710!

Jewelry : Antique : Fine : Georgian : Rubies Emeralds

 

Dating conservatively to to c.1710, but possibly as early as 1670, this highly-rare and regal pair of jeweled ring brooches take us back through history to the era of Dutch and Flemish courtiers and the sumptuous jewels that they scattered over their rich garments. It is very seldom that one finds a single jewel of this date intact and in museum-quality condition; I am thrilled to present this matched PAIR of early 18th-century emerald and ruby ring brooches to Ruby Lane!

Ring brooches were the preferred method by which people fastened thier clothing from the tenth century; they pre-date buttons and tongue-fastened buckles. Most surviving ring brooches date to the medieval period, and are crafted from plain bronze or silver. By the beginning of the 18th century, ring brooches were all but extinct, replaced by buttons, modern buckles, and string ties. This fabulous pair of ring brooches represent the end of the era of this simple yet elegant method with which to secure fabrics into place, and they have lost none of their beauty or ease of use over the past 285+ years!

Each of these special jewels is encrusted with Colombian emeralds and Burma rubies. The brooches are 100% intact, and retain all of their original gemstones. Obviously a matched pair crafted by the same hand for a lady of noble birth and great wealth, these brooches boast a total of 17 rose-cut Burma rubies and 17 table-cut Colombian emeralds. Each oval-shaped stone weighs approx. 15 pts., and is set in a foiled, closed-back wreath-motif mounting of gilt-topped sterling-grade silver (unmarked but tested). The settings of each of the stones are embellished with knife-edge decoration. The total weight of the jewels add up to approx. 2.5 cts. of emeralds, and 2.5 cts. of rubies.

The slightly larger of the two brooches measures 1" in diameter. The smaller of the two measures 7/8" in diameter. Both of these remarkable jewels are in museum-quality condition, with no losses, repairs, or replacements to the stones or mountings! The reverse of the pins show the original, hand-wrought T-bar pin findings. To fasten the brooches, one simply pulls a bit of fabric through the opening, and tucks the pin through the fabric. The pins stay securely in place, which is likely why this design of brooch enjoyed over 800 years of popularity!

The pair of jewels weigh a total of 9.5 grams. The fronts of the brooches retain all of their original gilding; the backs show traces of the original gilding still present after nearly three centuries of careful wear. These brooches are perfect to wear as impressive lapel or scatter pins today; the slight variation in the settings of the rubies and emeralds compliment one another worn together, or one can wear just one of these luxurious jewels at a time.

In over 15 year as a collector, scholar, dealer and lecturer in the field of early jewelry, this is the first pair of antique jeweled ring brooches I have ever had the honor to offer on the open market. These beautiful jewels would make a prized addition to any collection of fine antique jewelry, and represent a fine investment for the serious collector. The glitter of the rubies and emeralds also remind me of Christmas; could one ask for a better gift than this superb pair of Flemish jewels? I guarantee you will treasure them all the year round!

LAYAWAY IS AVAILABLE ON THIS ITEM! Terms are as follows: 25% down, with 5 months to pay the balance. If you are interested in layaway, please do not be shy; just ask!

Item ID: 349