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Austro-Hungarian Bracelet with Huge Amethysts and Seed Pearls
Bold and romantic are adjectives that don't usually go together yet they perfectly describe this Austro-Hungarian bracelet in the Renaissance revival style. Four ornate plaques of gilt silver are anchored by large amethysts; surrounding the large amethyst are diamond-shaped frames of seed pearls and smaller amethysts highlighting the corners. Each plaque has open metalwork of swirling waves, charming flowers and open fans. The underside of the bracelet is almost as beautiful as the top with four renaissance-style shells linked by ornate swirls at the corners. Even the underside of the clasp is magnificently engraved.
The amethysts, which are a medium shade of lavender, are collet-set and open backed. The natural seed pearls are wired and fit into channels on the surface of the bracelet. Please note that the photo shows the gilding on the bracelet as yellower than it actually is; the color is the soft shade of gold typical of Austro-Hungarian jewelry.
Size: 7-1/4" long x 1/5/8" wide. Each plaque rise 3/8" from the underside to the top of the stones. The large amethyst are 5/8" x 3/4". The small amethysts are 1/4" diameter.
Marks: The clasp is marked with Austro-Hungarian dog's head mark signifying 750 silver or higher; a "B" which is the city assay letter for Linz; and a maker's mark of "GK".
Age: circa 1900. The dog's head hallmark was in use from 1867-1922 and this piece falls in the middle of that range.
Weight: 133.2 grams
Condition: This bracelet is in wonderful antique condition with very little wear to the gilding. There are only two minor items to note: one of the wired strands of pearls sometimes pops out of its channel (it's securely wired to the bracelet, it just shifts slightly out of its channel) and one of the small amethysts was missing and replaced with a new one. The stone is an excellent match and only barely detectable because a little of the gilding was worn off the surrounding collet by the stone setter (I've taken a closeup photo to show this).
Gender: Female, Age Group: Adult, Color: Amethyst/gilt, Size: 7-1/4" long x 1/5/8" wide
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