One of a Kind ART DECO 'Shield' Emerald & Diamond Ring
I don't know what I love more: the shield shape of the ring, or the gorgeous diamonds, especially the Asscher cut... they're hard to find in today's market in new rings, so finding one in a ring nearing 100 years is so exciting!
So let's start with the Asscher cut diamond. Measuring approximately 3.00 x 2.80mm square (difficult to accurately measure due to millegrained bezel), per calculation, this beautiful diamond is estimated to weigh in & around 0.15 - 0.17ct. Its depth is quite deep when looking at the underside of the gallery, but we cannot get our digital calipers in there to measure. This Asscher does not have cut corners as new Asscher's do - it is a sharp-edged 'square'. It is absolutely CLEAN - VS in clarity in the least, and SO WHITE - we'll safely say F-G, though it could be even whiter. I just adore it!!
Directly above (or below the Asscher depending on how you wear the ring) is a dazzling old-cut marquise diamond that measures approximately 5.60mm x 3.20mm. Again, it is in a millegrained bezel and we are unable to measure its depth, but by calculation is falls around 0.25ct. Just as dazzling white in color, its clarity is Si1 and completely eye-clean.
There are 11 more sparkling diamonds dotted throughout the design: 3 above the marquise diamond, 2 collet-set just slightly above & off to the sides of the Asscher, 2 directly beside the Asscher and 4 more filling out the bottom 'arch' of the shield. These diamonds are all Old-European cut in shape and measure from approximately 1.10mm - 2.15mm for an estimate total combined carat weight of 0.15ct. Under our loupe they average VS2-Si1 in clarity, G-H color and are all individually bead-set (outside of the 2 collet-set diamonds) and surrounded by millegraining - so classic to the Edwardian & Art Deco periods.
Finally, there are 4 caliber-cut natural emeralds of excellent green color measuring from 2.30 - 3.30mm long. They run horizontally down either side of the marquise diamond, again, surrounded by millegrain.
The only flaw in this ring lies here: one of the emeralds has broken/chipped off at some point in its 90 years and is missing. You can see this 'damage' in our highly magnified pictures, which were what brought the damage to our attention. We had not noticed it with our naked eye until we photographed it and looked at the pictures blown up. When looking at the ring now being aware of the missing piece of emerald, a 'gap' between the 2 caliber-cut emeralds is apparent. It just looks like the spacing is wonky between the two - only under very close inspection do you realize it's because the emerald is chipped. Inspecting all 4 emeralds under magnification, each emerald does show wear or chipping, to be expected with such a soft stone in a small size.
We discussed with several jewelers the possibility of replacing the emeralds, but all of have said given the rarity & age of the ring, finding replacements would not only prove very difficult, but re-setting them would be risky & could jeopardize the integrity of the piece. So we have decided it is best to leave them as-is. The ring is still beyond fabulous and we'd hate to ruin it in any way by trying to 'fix' it... wear & tear shows love... and with old beauties, we want to keep them that way! No point in offering antique & near-antique if we're to try & make them 'new' again!
Absolutely rare & gorgeous, if you want a keepsake, a treasure, a conversation-starter, look no further than this special find. Comparatively, similar pieces in design, diamond/gem carat weight & quality sell upwards of $2500-$4500, however, due to the damaged emeralds, we're offering this piece at a considerably reduced price!
Snap her up...she's waiting for you to wear her proudly!
Circa 1920
US SIZE: 5 1/4 - 5 1/2 (inner diameter 15.90 - 16.10mm round); Sizing possible up or down, but please always inquire first before placing your order.
Item ID: ADShieldEmld
Gender: Unisex, Age Group: Adult, Color: Green/White/Gold, Size: 5.25
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