Handmade 14Kt. Gold Collar Style Necklace - Circa 1960

This necklace was stolen at a CA. antique show. Reward offered for information leading to it's return. Thank you.

This fabulous necklace is so well done & has such great style that when Rich first saw it he expected a famous maker's hallmark. We just can not believe that there is no makers mark-just a 14kt. for gold content. The hand work for assembly alone must have taken hours.

I am not a goldsmith so I am going to give you my interpretation of what I feel I am seeing in workmanship. Each one of those feathers (what we like to call them) was cast. They then received what appears to be a hand engraved horizontal lined interior & a diamond cut edge rim. The smith then used a cast oval link that was flat with an elongated open center. He placed a link over a link, like a stair step, & inserted a jump ring for holding them together. He then either soldered the jump ring closed or he soldered the top of the feather to the jump ring closing the connection. See the bottom half of photo # 5 for a look at the linkage. He then repeated this stair step process an unbelievable amount of times as there are 65 full feathers & one more feather cut into 3 pieces to cover the custom shape box clasp. There are also the stepped links just connected by jump rings to put space between feathers & give a curve to the necklace. Now you know why we were amazed that we couldn't find a makers mark. There is one tiny spot in one of the half feathers that may be a mark or just a heavier hand on the line engraving. I have used a lighted loupe on it & still don't know which it is.

The gold is in excellent condition. We find no rips, dents, deep scratches or repairs. Every one of those feathers is firmly attached with what appears to be their original solder joints. The closure is very firm & when the flange is inserted you hear a soft click. There is a tiny 14K mark on the flange. This mark does not look original and the gold has been tested in several places. Discounting the flange the necklace measures approx. 17" long with the feathers being approx. 3/4" tall & weighs 81 grams. It is extremely hard to date this piece. With all the hand work you would think late 19th. or early 20th. century. But the necklace has a figure 8 security catch that appears original so we are going to have to say last half of 20th. century. But whatever it's age or maker this piece is a true treasure with it's weight, quality work & goldsmith's time.

Item ID: 771

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Gender: Female, Age Group: Adult, Color: gold, Size: L

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Richard W. Bell

Richard W. Bell Owner - Christine Clark Mgr., Orange, CA   

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