Rare 18th Century Georgian Diamond Set Demi Parure - Austrian
A substantial suite set with hundreds of foil back Rose, Table & Indian Face Cut Diamonds of various sizes in the form of flower heads and foliate spray motifs totaling more than 13 carats.
The earrings take their inspiration from the popular Girandole of the period. Built in 3 articulated sections they are a slender 1" wide and hang a full 3.25" long. The fleur-de-lis set anchors are fitted with high carat gold hinged back to front hangers that run the full length of the anchor and appear to be original to the earrings. Closed backs are elaborately engraved accentuating their petals and leaves. The earrings appear to have been designed to be worn in graduating form, however the fittings are closed - which was likely by request of the client. Very cleverly made to hang slightly arched on the ear instead of straight down. Beautifully balanced and elegant. It should be mentioned that they are typically heavy, weighing 15 grams each - a concern raised by the author A. Dufflos in 1744 in the Discours Preliminaire of his "Recueil des Dessins." The designing Jewelers of the day argued that these special earrings of this would only be worn in candle light - and for short periods!
The brooch is an important 3 5/8" x 2 7/8 " with a daisy like flower head center, small tulips and lilies amid the foliate sprays. Diamonds are proportionately larger than in the earrings, and again of various sizes. Finished to the verso as are the earrings with gilt over the silver to protect clothing. Broaching assembly is high carat gold and appears to be original. Weight by scale: 48 grams.
CONDITION: Remarkably fine overall antique condition displaying little or no wear & tear. No losses, replacements or repairs to note. Stickpin on the brooch has a slight bend but remains fully functional. (We are happy to have this straightened with permission of our client.) T Hinge is sturdy. Tube closure opens and locks into place as it should. Poissarde back to front fittings on the earrings are sturdy with the solid hinges performing as they should. Diamonds: Antique Diamonds cannot be graded using modern standards. Mounted carat weigh is estimated to 13.5 carats for the 3 pieces. The suite was custom crafted by hand, sand cast and tooled on the obverse. Original box not present. Circa: 18th century, possibly of French manufacture.
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So much more beautiful than the photographs can convey.
Priced for the suite.
Item ID: R2697
Gender: Female, Age Group: Adult, Color: Silver, Gold, Diamonds, Size: 3.5"
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