This is a fantastic Antique 19thC Museum Quality Victorian Bustle Back Coat in Black Silk Velvet, Silk fabric and Lavish Trim. This coat is from an estate of a collector from Long Island and my guess is that the collector purchased this coat in and around the New York area. The coat itself was made for a wealthy individual and from the appearance was not worn very much. And the condition is appropriately excellent and beautiful. Fortunately it has been carefully maintained and stored.
The photography was done outside in full sun so that all the details would show in the pictures. The black velvet is sumptuous and the black silk trim down the front and back is black to the eye and not a gray color that the pictures may imply. The sun lightened the color a bit as was my intention to allow the details to show. But the coat is black in real life. The fabrics are the best and the dressmaker workmanship is superb. The coat is heavy and meant for the winter because the bodice black silk lining (to the hip) is padded with batting and quilted in order to keep the grand lady warm. There are a few holes to the lining but no underarm staining. All the original hooks and eyes are still fastened down the front along with the black velvet covered buttons (some wear to the velvet around the outside edge of the buttons). The coat is also trimmed around the sleeves and down the back. Princess seaming shapes the back bodice with a 3/4" horizontal fabric slit to the right side. The fabrics are strong and not fragile although the coat is old so some care is needed to insure the integrity and conservation of the fabric.
The coat is a bustle coat and has ample room for the bustle while the center back is divided to also allow that room. Draped fabric forms the bustle with trim of cording and balls from a buttoned rosette. Black chenille star shape designs with a ball center and corded circles are found along the lower back and the bodice trim. There are some small holes to the lower portion of the lining which are not actually holes. The fabric warp is brown threads and the weft is black. Some of the black wool is missing to these small areas leaving the brown warp threads exposed. The black silk velvet is rich and luxurious with no holes other than the one to the back previously described. Please ask questions if I have not included something in the description that is important for you to know. More photos available.
The measurements include: Bust 31 1/2", Waist 26", Across from shoulder to shoulder in front 14", Sleeve length 23", Around the bustle at hips about 45", Center front neck to waist 12 1/2", Top of shoulder to bottom hem 52 1/2", Waist to hem 37 1/2", Top of center back to waist 15 1/2", Right and Left side panels 32" width at hemline.
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